Archive: 19 posts

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I Keep building trains and coming to the same problems The wheels. This constant problem is starting to bug me and i would like some advice on how i can resolve it. the basic issue is the wheels not moving no matter how fast i set the advanced rotater ( I prefer these to moter bolts since they provide added realism to the acceleration of the train because of this i don't use movers either). I understand that the wheel may have wheel spin due to the metal having no grip but i have tried rubber wheels as well.The logic could use some improvement too ( http://lbp.me/p/q1wyrj-). Could anyone shine some light on the subject? Pictures: http://lbp.me/p/q1wyqd6 http://lbp.me/p/q1wyrxp http://lbp.me/p/q1wyrf8 Thanks for reading.

2012-11-19 19:50:00 Author: Spaceraoul28 Posts: 175

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Wait so, are the wheels not spinning at all, or are they spinning, but the train is just wheelspinning in place? Looking at the pictures, from what I can gather, a setup that straightforward ought to work. You haven't accidentally glued your wheels to the body, have you?

2012-11-19 20:31:00 Author: Ostler5000 Posts: 1017

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Wait so, are the wheels not spinning at all, or are they spinning, but the train is just wheelspinning in place? Looking at the pictures, from what I can gather, a setup that straightforward ought to work. You haven't accidentally glued your wheels to the body, have you? I have made sure the wheels are bolted not glued. Some of wheels appear of the ground and spinning, as for others are just not moving at all. I have also made sure the train is not glued to the ground or the tracks.

2012-11-19 20:44:00 Author: Spaceraoul28 Posts: 175

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...advanced rotator... I'm pretty sure that advanced rotators aren't the best kind to be using for wheels. I'm near certain that a normal rotator set to 'speed scale' would work better. Hope this helps dood!

2012-11-20 03:56:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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Maybe your rotator is trying to rotate not only the wheel, but the entire train? The rotator could be viewing your train as one giant object, since the wheels are attached to it. I prefer these to moter bolts since they provide added realism to the acceleration of the train because of this i don't use movers either). Well there's one problem right there... use the right tools for the job. Use a motor bolt, and don't worry about the "realism" that comes with acceleration--any gadder who knows much about logic at all can easily program acceleration and deceleration logic to input into a motor bolt. If you're not the logic-savvy type, there are tons of tutorials and other gadders who would be happy to help you.

2012-11-20 04:11:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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...use the right tools for the job. Use a motor bolt, and don't worry about the "realism" that comes with acceleration--any gadder who knows much about logic at all can easily program acceleration and deceleration logic to input into a motor bolt. If you're not the logic-savvy type, there are tons of tutorials and other gadders who would be happy to help you. ...Okay, I'm bringing out the big guns now. :kz: Using a simple rotator with low deceleration and acceleration values is much simpler than having a bunch of logic. Say you wanted to use motor bolts AND have some level of realism. You'd have to have three batteries in three separate microchips, all linked to an OR gate, which is linked to a speed scale timer. The timer would be linked to the motor bolts (also set to speed scale). One of the said batteries would have to be set to something like 80%. Another would be set to something like -20%. The last would be -100%. The 80% battery would activate when accelerating (so the timer increases in value at a rate of 80% compared to the total time), the -20% would be activated when no other signal is on (which would slowly bring the timer down, to show the train slowly rolling to a halt), and the -100% would be activated when the brakes are on. So you'd need all that logic if you were to use motor bolts, but a rotator just requires you to tweak it. Simple as that. ...I know this because I've been working on this: https://lbpcentral.lbp-hub.com/index.php?t=75067-First-Person-Racer But yes, there is one very, very, very major upside to having the timers and three batteries. If you also linked the timer to a positional sequencer, then you'd have a simple way of adding stuff onto it. For example, a tachometer, or a camera that zooms out as you accelerate... you know, stuff like that.

2012-11-20 04:41:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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When it comes to either rotator logic + bolt OR engine bolts... http://i48.tinypic.com/11c455t.jpg You can have the engine bolt in place for looks; just set it to 0% strength. You may want to stick it to a separate piece of flat, invisible hologram for that and glue it to the actual wheels. Then, on the wheels themselves, use a normal bolt to attach them to the train and rotator logic to make them spin.

2012-11-20 07:40:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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Im going to try all the solutions suggested to see if they work with the train. Back later And thanks everyone for the help and advice. :star: EDIT: ...Okay, I'm bringing out the big guns now. :kz: Using a simple rotator with low deceleration and acceleration values is much simpler than having a bunch of logic. Say you wanted to use motor bolts AND have some level of realism. You'd have to have three batteries in three separate microchips, all linked to an OR gate, which is linked to a speed scale timer. The timer would be linked to the motor bolts (also set to speed scale). One of the said batteries would have to be set to something like 80%. Another would be set to something like -20%. The last would be -100%. The 80% battery would activate when accelerating (so the timer increases in value at a rate of 80% compared to the total time), the -20% would be activated when no other signal is on (which would slowly bring the timer down, to show the train slowly rolling to a halt), and the -100% would be activated when the brakes are on. So you'd need all that logic if you were to use motor bolts, but a rotator just requires you to tweak it. Simple as that. ...I know this because I've been working on this: https://lbpcentral.lbp-hub.com/index.php?t=75067-First-Person-Racer But yes, there is one very, very, very major upside to having the timers and three batteries. If you also linked the timer to a positional sequencer, then you'd have a simple way of adding stuff onto it. For example, a tachometer, or a camera that zooms out as you accelerate... you know, stuff like that. This worked well ,thanks, the wheels now have realistic movement and actually move. I also learnt something from this method of logic.

2012-11-20 19:42:00 Author: Spaceraoul28 Posts: 175

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Using a simple rotator with low deceleration and acceleration values is much simpler than having a bunch of logic. The logic required to make a motor bolt do the exact same thing is hardly complicated--in fact, it's pretty much negligible. All you need is a timer, assuming your bolt's input is set to "speed scale". In fact, if you take all tweaks and logic pieces into account, using a motor bolt is simpler than a rotator, since you don't need to fine-tune your acceleration and deceleration values.

2012-11-20 23:56:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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The logic required to make a motor bolt do the exact same thing is hardly complicated--in fact, it's pretty much negligible. All you need is a timer, assuming your bolt's input is set to "speed scale". In fact, if you take all tweaks and logic pieces into account, using a motor bolt is simpler than a rotator, since you don't need to fine-tune your acceleration and deceleration values. Fine-tuning? Pfft. Just having the settings on something like 50% is satisfactory. ...And if you want realism, you're gonna need a lot more than just a timer.

2012-11-21 01:46:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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Fine-tuning? Pfft. Just having the settings on something like 50% is satisfactory. ...And if you want realism, you're gonna need a lot more than just a timer. If you want realism with a rotator, you're going to need a lot more than just a few tweaks. Using one(1) motor bolt and one(1) timer, I can achieve a similar level of realism as a rotator with any tweaks you can make to it. I have no idea how you came up with that battery method, but it's completely unnecessary and overly complicated. Using a timer (or series of timers) and/or a feedback loop achieves the same result.

2012-11-21 01:49:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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If you want realism with a rotator, you're going to need a lot more than just a few tweaks. I have no idea how you came up with that battery method, but it's completely unnecessary and overly complicated. Using a timer (or series of timers) and/or a feedback loop achieves the same result. The battery method? That's so that the wheels behave realistically. One battery for acceleration, one for rolling to a halt, and another for brakes. This method also allows you to directly change how fast it accelerates and decelerates, by changing the battery percent values.

2012-11-21 01:54:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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The battery method? That's so that the wheels behave realistically. One battery for acceleration, one for rolling to a halt, and another for brakes. This method also allows you to directly change how fast it accelerates and decelerates, by changing the battery percent values. Or, I can use one timer to achieve acceleration and deceleration. If you want to get slightly more technical, you can use signal multiplication to dynamically change how quickly the train accelerates or decelerates.

2012-11-21 01:57:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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Or, I can use one timer to achieve acceleration and deceleration. If you want to get slightly more technical, you can use signal multiplication to dynamically change how quickly the train accelerates or decelerates. One timer? That's what I was saying in my tutorial up there... I just said you needed three batteries.

2012-11-21 02:01:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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One timer? That's what I was saying in my tutorial up there... I just said you needed three batteries. But you don't.

2012-11-21 02:07:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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But you don't. But you don't. :O Double poster!! I'm just saying what I did for my First Person Racer project, so I suppose the -20% wouldn't be needed in a side-on vehicle. You'd keep rolling on anyway, right? As long the deceleration is set to something low.

2012-11-21 02:16:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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:O Double poster!! That must have been a network issue, I only posted once. I'm just saying what I did for my First Person Racer project, so I suppose the -20% wouldn't be needed in a side-on vehicle. You'd keep rolling on anyway, right? As long the deceleration is set to something low. In a side-on vehicle, no batteries are needed at all--just a timer.

2012-11-21 02:27:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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That must have been a network issue, I only posted once. In a side-on vehicle, no batteries are needed at all--just a timer. But what if you wanted the acceleration to be slower than deceleration? You'd need the batteries. But yeah, I suppose most people would be happy with just a timer.

2012-11-21 02:43:00 Author: Kaboosh99 Posts: 359

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But what if you wanted the acceleration to be slower than deceleration? You'd need the batteries. But yeah, I suppose most people would be happy with just a timer. Analogue signal manipulation.

2012-11-21 02:48:00 Author: xero Posts: 2419

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