Archive: 4 posts

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I've already posted this on LittleBigPlanetarium and LittleBigNetwork, but I might as well post it here as well. Hello people! I was unsure whether to post this here, since it could also quite nicely belong in Project and Ideas or the Object Showcase. However, I decided it was best to post it here. I have decided to try to fulfill a logical challenge I set myself. Make as many Advanced Logic Gadgets as you can using only the stuff you find in the simple logic category. It's pretty much timers from NOT Gates, Counters from NOR Gates and Direction Combiners from Batteries. When I've finished making all that I can make, I'll publish the advanced-logic-from-simple-logic in a givaway level. Here's what I've made so far: http://i7.lbp.me/img/ft/06750e4390b120ae83ecfffa0f928d952603d16c.jpg Inside these microchips are a plethora of logic gates, batteries, and more microchips, designed to mimic all (and if that is not possible, most) or the function of the advanced logic gate it corresponds to. While you can tell which corresponds to which rather easily, some are confusing. The black microchip to the right of the toggle is the counter chip. I'll explain why it has 3 inputs later. The black microchip to the right of the counter chip is the timer chip. The chip with the numbers on it is an advanced logic gadget of my own-which I will describe later. For now, let's look at the toggle chip. http://i6.lbp.me/img/ft/fe62c64d8c72d3284042bf1fcfad749c7ee2bcaa.jpg This is the toggle chip with the circuit board open. The OR, AND, and XOR gates are simply a pulser circuit. It sends one pulse every time the input is activated, like a counter with a target count of one, and its output connected to its reset input. The two XNOR gates on the right are a sort of latch. When the top input of the top XNOR gates are activated, then the XNOR gate that was on turns off, and vice versa. It works exactly like the cycle input of a two input selector. It works exactly like a normal toggle. Next up: The counter chip. It's a little complex. http://i8.lbp.me/img/ft/f3802c6a921af2ac4bd529c4ed3282e0adc87519.jpg This counter chip acts like a counter with a target count of three. It even recognizes analog signals and counts down or up. However, since I can't really make a direction splitter with simple logic, I had to have one input for a positive signal and one for a negative signal,which combines with the reset input to make the number of inputs three. You'll just have to split the signal yourself if you want to use this counter with three way switches, the analog sticks, etc. I can't really explain the thing as a whole, so I'll have to split it into parts. http://i4.lbp.me/img/ft/ef4f83ae9578b3b9dc76722b1b6dad696b403510.jpg These are just three pulser circuits, like the ones on the toggle chip but just closer together. There's one for the positive, negative, and reset inputs. http://i5.lbp.me/img/ft/f351c80d2a935cfff2c9c05523b13789829197db.jpg The red XOR gate is simply the output of the positive pulser circuit which I made red so it would be easier to notice. It goes into a microchip-oops! I forgot to open them up. http://i4.lbp.me/img/ft/e94c1f665ac7b954e543e2c310296e9e885aa4e7.jpg The red input goes into the the top input of the top NOR gate in a NOR latch. Pretty much, a NOR latch is like two input selector without the cycle input, except inverted. As you can see, the NOR gates are wired into each other. The top input of the top NOR gate is from the red XOR gate, and the bottom input of the bottom NOR gate-I'll talk about that later. When the red input activates, the bottom NOR gate activates and outputs to an AND gate to the right of the microchip which you can see in that picture of the counter chip above the one above this text (the one with the microchips closed). The other input of the AND gate is from the red XOR gate. When the positive input is pressed again, the AND gate activates, sending a signal to the next NOR latch microchip, which outputs to the next AND gate, which outputs to the next NOR latch when the positive input activates, and then the counter chip's output is on. This is the bottom right quarter of the chip. http://i5.lbp.me/img/ft/bb5c41aa0d9e7ff3393d18b2de15ccd7ac84e357.jpg See the red OR gates? They output into the bottom input of the bottom NOR gate of the NOR latch above it. The top input of all of those OR gates is the the output of whatever your using to reset the counter chip, and it pretty much resets each NOR latch. All the other logic in the pic (and the other input of the OR gates) is pretty much the logic concerning the negative input of the counter chip. It pretty much decides which NOR latch to reset based on what the counters count is. So, if it were two, then it would reset the second NOR latch and nothing else so the count would be one. That's the counter chip, pretty much. I would explain it better but the pictures aren't that great. ON TO THE TIMER! Well, it's pretty complex. http://i8.lbp.me/img/ft/568bfa7a5b44465f659f671a2e890c7942c9fd1e.jpg Pretty much, the timer acts just like a Start Count Up timer, except it times for exactly, if my math is right, 128 frames, or 4 and 4/15 seconds. Going to the nearest tenth of a second was too mainstream, I guess. Let's start in parts. http://i2.lbp.me/img/ft/7a2fb1d72894112989cac82a53f92dcd12a5188e.jpg This is what I call the "introduction". The left input it the start count up, and the right input is the reset. The purple microchips are just pulser circuits. When start count up is activated, the NOR latch to the right with the OR gate in between it switches, and the red microchip (which contains a NOT gate wired into itself, creating a fast flicker) is activated. I know that we don't see a wire, but that is just because of the complexity. There is actually a wire. The fast flicker NOT GATE outputs into this: http://i2.lbp.me/img/ft/f626230cab03472b33c1a6ee2e25bef26b42c8d3.jpg A buttload of XNOR latches (remember them from the Toggle? how they acted like the cycle input of a selector?) and green microchips. Inside each green microchip is a 1 stage counter, or pretty much the NOR latch and an AND Gate like that from the counter chip. The 1 stage counter corresponds to an XNOR latch to the left. The AND gate will only activate when the right XNOR gate of the corresponding XNOR latch is active and the right NOR gate of the NOR gate latch (you can't see it though) is active. From the picture, the right XNOR latch is active, but (not from the picture) the left NOR latch in the microchip is active. The NOR latch is activated by the left XNOR gate of the corresponding XNOR latch. It basically takes the whole latch and 1 stage counter 2 activations from the NOT gate (4 frames) to activate (one off frame, 1 on frame to activate the left XNOR and the right NOR from the latches, another off frame, and another on to re-activate the right XNOR gate). The next latch and counter takes 2 activations from the previous latch and counter instead of the NOT gate. Since it takes 4 frames for the previous latch and counter to activate, then it's 8 frames for the previous latch and counter to activate twice to activate this one. Then the next latch and counter is 16 frames (two activations of a latch and counter that takes 8 frames to activate), then 32 and then so on up to 128. Sound confusing? Yeah-it's a little hard to understand without a demonstration, but it works. All that's really important is that it times for 128 frames. Let's move on to the next part. http://i7.lbp.me/img/ft/8c7975026c8cce477b9302f3e96c10ee31bca072.jpg This is the "conclusion and reset". When the last XNOR latch is activated, it outputs to the blue NOR latch and activates the output. Now for the reset logic. The red microchip is just a fast flicker like the one at the timer introduction. When reset is activated, not only is the blue NOR latch resetted, turning the timer off (if it was on), but it also activates the yellow NOR latch which activates the microchip, sending flickers into the AND gates. The other input of each AND gate is from each of the leftmost gate of the XNOR latches. To reset fully, each right XNOR gate of each XNOR latch must be on, and the left XNOR gates off, so naturally if the leftmost gate of an XNOR latch is on, the it gets a flicker and the rightmost gate turns on. It takes a varying number of pulses to do this (I don't know why, hence the NOT gate to give many pulses), so I just made it so that the yellow NOR latch resets when the start count up input is pressed again. Right now the timer is a bit buggy and has many disadvantages, so I'm still working on it. Here we go. The selector. It mimics all the two input selector's actions perfectly; it is an "Accurate Selector": http://i2.lbp.me/img/ft/a42c8783521548c604eeb8d08334dd3f1acd4058.jpg PARTS PLEASE! http://i3.lbp.me/img/ft/b13e353e96a368554d618c12615ad3df3c1290f4.jpg This is like the beginning and the end of the chip. The OR gates input (top or gate has input from selector's first input, bottom input has input from selector's second input, other inputs deal with cycle input) into the NOR latch, which outputs into another NOR latch. Why? Well, if both inputs for a NOR latch is on (say if two mischievous players are activating both inputs 1 and 2 at the same time, the latch has a pretty annoying habit of turning both NOR gates off, which is a disgrace to the very name of the selector. Hence, the next latch (since both inputs of a NOR latch can't be on, this fixes the problem). Why the top NOR gate in the second latch has 3 inputs I will explain later, as well as the OR gate at the right. Otherwise, to the cycle logic! http://i9.lbp.me/img/ft/509b46c80d4374c2062b97dfd3a1465c038d2609.jpg The XNOR latch provides the cycling, thank you very much. The microchip is a pulser circuit with the input being the cycle input. The AND gates to the right make sure the XNOR latch stays in line. By that, I mean that it synchronizes the XNOR latch with the selector chip's output. Say that the XNOR latch's bottom XNOR gate is active, and the top NOR gate in the NOR latch that controls the output is active. A situation like this would mean that both NOR Gates in the first NOR latch are activated, turning them both off, meaning that the second NOR latch doesn't change at all. When you hit cycle, there's no cycle! So, the AND gates detect whether a situation like this would happen and would rush to prevent it by activating the latch, synchronizing the XNOR latch to the NOR latch. By the way, remember when I said that my "Accurate Selector" mimics a normal selector perfectly? Well, it also picks up ones of the normal selector's perks-it's favoritism towards the second output. See, if you activate both imputs of a selector (not the cycle one), then the second output would always be on. Never the first. Also, if the first and cycle inputs of a selector are on, then it flickers. If the second and cycle inputs are on, nothing happens. The second input stays on. So, the AND gate in my "Accurate Selector" detects if both inputs are on. If so, then it outputs to the OR gate at the far right (in the picture above the above picture with the two NOR latches) sending a signal to the third input of the top NOR gate of the second NOR latch, activating the bottom output. So, anyway, I wanted a selector that didn't do that; a selector that was fair to its outputs and didn't treat one better than the other. I called this the "Better Selector". PICS PLEASE! http://i8.lbp.me/img/ft/ba81681d759dc4c9ae91b88a488033d07a10dcf5.jpg Like the "Accurate Selector", but without all the extra logic. When both inputs are on, nothing changes. Wonderful. Now for the Direction Combiner. http://i0.lbp.me/img/ft/9600fd5a0b6ef668b6c3afa4f7e5d868e74e3eed.jpg Compared to the Counter, Timer, and Selector, it's simple, like the Toggle, and quite frankly, a breath of fresh air. I don't even need to split it into parts. Whoopee! Anyway. The Direction Combiner chip can do most of the functions of a normal combiner. The top input is positive. The two NOT gates make at the top make sure the output it positive, by subtracting the analog signal by 100 and then 100 again, which is pretty much the same % as before. NOT Gates, ironically, can't understand negatives, and all the outputs are positive. The negative (bottom) input operates on the fact that if you take an AND gate, stick a battery at -%100 down and connect its output the the AND gate's input, then you can turn any positive input negative. Just stick your wire into the AND gate's other input, and watch the negativity occur (fun with a logic probe). However, it has to be positive, and can't be negative or else the output will be positive. How do we change this? Why, just make the input positive, silly! Hence the two NOT gates. Sadly, this direction combiner chip cannot do subtraction. When two analog signals are fed into both inputs, it will just output the biggest. Also, it doesn't output a bi-directional signal, meaning that it can't make wheels, pistons, and timers go back and forth like a normal combiner. Sad...oh well. And now, the moment I have been waiting for as I typed this... THE ADVANCED LOGIC GADGET OF MY OWN DESIGN... THE MAGNITUDER! http://i5.lbp.me/img/ft/6057caeb14a5a90de62d10abc4fb068b26ebeb61.jpg "What does it do?" I hear you ask. Well, it counts the number of inputs active at the same time and activates an output corresponding to that. FREAKING AWESOME! Here's a demonstration: When no inputs are active, the "0" output is active: http://ib.lbp.me/img/ft/85b02605fdf4190ad1da9b4a0986911f9006d27e.jpg When 1 input is active, the "1" output is active: http://i9.lbp.me/img/ft/a298059793f9c9ca4145a28f9f403a74ff7d98f9.jpg When 2 inputs are active at the same time, the "2" output is active: http://ie.lbp.me/img/ft/b0edf7dca6363123ac1f10eedea770d46e25d7c4.jpg When 3 inputs are active...you get the idea. While this may not be that impressive at first, let me tell you that the Magnituder will always output only based on how many are on, and is COMPLETELY UNFAZED BY THE PATTERN OR COMBINATION. So... http://if.lbp.me/img/ft/0bf86fae569d34fc1104c6a9542640f74c7e2555.jpg equals... http://i0.lbp.me/img/ft/810eee2236ea992be91e6f0b04fe436dc0c0de70.jpg equals any other combination you can think of. Sure, you can do this with analog signals but THIS IS SIMPLE LOGIC, *****! Here's what it looks like inside: http://i5.lbp.me/img/ft/e851526306b9e2137e01a3856f233d089a77c9ad.jpg Oh, what's that? You expect me to split it into parts and explain it to you? Well I'm tired. Let me know if there are any typos. See ya lat-PICKLE!

2012-05-05 21:06:00 Author: Kalawishis Posts: 928

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So, you basicly recreate the existing advanced logic with simple logic. Nice job, the only question I have is: why???

2012-05-13 21:12:00 Author: Fotografht Posts: 57

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So, you basicly recreate the existing advanced logic with simple logic. Nice job, the only question I have is: why??? It takes less space on the thermometer and it lags less. It's also easier to work with.

2012-05-13 23:54:00 Author: warlord_evil Posts: 4193

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Why climb Mount Everest? Because it is there. Why make advanced logic from simple logic? Because it is...well, um...yeah. It is nice to see this thread get some attention. I was worried my hard work would disappear down the forum drain. Anyway, I posted this up because it is not a project-not a project in a traditional sense. It is more of a logic challenge for myself. However, it would be nice for you to give me advice (wow, am I the king of unexpected rhymes or what) on improving the logic or adding new logic, without just directly telling me how to do things like in the help section. Say, you could give me advice on frames (which confuse the heck out of me) or latches, or whatever. Here's what I plan to make next: 1 input counter that can generate pulses. 4-? input counter 256-? frame timer 1-64 frame timer A timer that can accept analog signals like my counter chip Start count down timers, Start stop timers, etc. 3-? input selectors that can accept analog signals like my counter chip The Randomiser (I know I can't really make it random, but I'll make it emit a sequence I program into it) The Gameplay Sequencer, or at least a chip that replicates its functions.= Direction Splitter, although it may not be possible It's a lot, I know. I'll try updating this regularly as I go on.

2012-05-14 00:45:00 Author: Kalawishis Posts: 928

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