Archive: 15 posts

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Hello everyone, today I am going to show you all how to make Complex Light Sequences using the sequencer tool. For this tutorial, I will show you how to make a Light Sequence that doesn't require the use of batteries. Before I begin, I would like to inform everyone that I have also made a level containing this tutorial. You can check this level out by clicking the link below. I will be including pictures from this level as visual aides in this tutorial. How to Make a Complex Light Sequencer (http://lbp.me/v/28c8pt) Simple and Complex Light Sequencer - With Batteries Before I get started, I would like to go over the popular designs of both simple and complex light sequencers that I have seen used before. The first is the simple light sequencer, made with just a sequencer and one battery for each light. This design is very simple and reliable, as well as easy to create. However, the complexity of the pattern you can make with this design is very limited. In fact, each light can only be turned on once during the cycle. This design will work well for basic 1-2-3 type patterns, but it's overall use is very limited. Here is a pic of what this design looks like in practice. http://ia.lbp.me/img/ft/07a8054ec1ec188d06cf58f97469420254c60bf3.jpg The next design is a version of the previous design with the addition of a few OR gates. This design will allow for more complexity in light sequences, because now each light will be able to turn on more than once during the cycle. It is even possible to have multiple lights on at the same time, and operate independently. This design comes with a downside, the more complex your design, the more inputs each OR gate will need. The OR gates have proven to be very laggy when too many inputs are plugged in. It's best to avoid using OR gates with more than six inputs, they start to cause a lot of lag. Here is what the complex light sequencer using batteries looks like. http://ia.lbp.me/img/ft/bfa25f529835ee8df18ee57d628d521718635ef9.jpg Complex Light Sequencer - Without Batteries To begin this tutorial, you must start with a few lights. For this tutorial, you may use any type of light that can be turned on with a switch. You may also use as many lights as you would like. For this tutorial, I use three LED lights, one red, one green, and one blue for simplicity. http://i9.lbp.me/img/ft/349914fe0a65a8f5677460b5fb6d016fc9766c2d.jpg Next, you want to place a tag sensor to activate every light. Note that if you want one or more lights to work in tandem with each other, they may share a tag sensor to save space. Remember to differentiate each tag, whether it be by color, tag name, or both. Connect each tag sensor output to it's corresponding light. Below is a pic of what my setup looks like at this point. http://ic.lbp.me/img/ft/9bc3ef9d2701be7c596c614db01fb87e30e4eff0.jpg Next, you will place a sequencer near your tag sensors. Make sure the radius on your tag sensors is large enough to reach the sequencer. To sequence the lights, you will place tags on your sequencer corresponding to the tag sensors your lights are connected to, placed in the order you wish for them to activate. Push up or down on the right control stick when placing a tag to make it stretch longer or shorter, which will make the light stay on longer or shorter. Below is an example of a functioning light sequencer. This design is just for demonstration purposes, you can use whatever pattern of lights you wish to use. http://if.lbp.me/img/ft/cdffbdad24b9be90584d198df9adefd481da3675.jpg http://i3.lbp.me/img/ft/fc359c50dc8368b36aaa647c642b5429b2f17d38.jpg And there you have it! Just start the sequencer and your lights should activate in whatever pattern you set them to. I really hope this tutorial helped some of you out. Let me know what you think of it. Feel free to show me any cool light sequences you have made using this technique. Any questions or comments are also welcome. Remember to check out the tutorial level on my earth as well. I will provide the link for you again at the bottom. http://i4.lbp.me/img/ft/9840a3b2b8805782a4f690526d86f77ea4fee9fd.jpg How to Make a Complex Light Sequencer (http://lbp.me/v/28c8pt)

2011-06-28 09:18:00 Author: sp0ngyraver Posts: 407

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Nice tutorial there. I use this simply because i hate wires. I've almost resorted to making any thing going from one microchip to another always a tag sensor, as they can be set to cover most (if not all) of the level, and who really ever uses a switch from one end of a level to the other, come to think of it, how many people actually wire more than about 10 big grids apart...

2011-06-28 14:27:00 Author: Bang126 Posts: 157

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You should change the title. It's not just for lighting, this is useful for anything driven by a sequencer where you activate something more than once.

2011-06-28 16:40:00 Author: Rogar Posts: 2284

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Someone from this forum named boo'd this level without even saying why. But once again it was boo'd by a person with barely any levels/plays so I know it was only boo'd out of jealousy. He also says he is on this site's spotlight crew. According to their recent activity they just go to new levels and boo them. Why do we allow ppl on our spotlight crew who are contributing to the problem we are trying to fight against? I couldn't see anything functionally wrong with the tutorial. If anyone sees any errors please let me know.

2011-06-28 20:39:00 Author: sp0ngyraver Posts: 407

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No idea, seems they have a history of booing everything. Best not to raise the issue publicly though. Also, I never thought to do it this way. Thanks.

2011-06-28 23:01:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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I'm not putting them on blast publicly, but thanks for letting me know that other ppl have had a problem with them before. I don't plan to just push this issue under the rug. Yeah I originally started using this technique because I was getting too much lag from all the OR gates. I use this method in my Cosmic Blasters level.

2011-06-29 00:20:00 Author: sp0ngyraver Posts: 407

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I personally don't mind if I have to drag wires across large distances, as I'm usually working to make my things as functional, yet also as less thermometer-intensive, as it can be, and I fear that switching from wires to tags and tag sensors would increase the amount of thermometer usage that my objects would take up. The only time that I'd ever use tags and tag sensors in place of wiring is if either the receiver or the transmitter is going to be emitted, destroyed, or reemitted before or after the other. (I hope that you get the idea.) This should be useful for creating baddies or bosses that "phase out" of a level as part of their scripting, or that need to be emitted, yet receive some sort of signal from an external source.

2011-06-29 01:11:00 Author: Shadow Wolf TJC Posts: 72

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I personally don't mind if I have to drag wires across large distances, as I'm usually working to make my things as functional, yet also as less thermometer-intensive, as it can be, and I fear that switching from wires to tags and tag sensors would increase the amount of thermometer usage that my objects would take up. The only time that I'd ever use tags and tag sensors in place of wiring is if either the receiver or the transmitter is going to be emitted, destroyed, or reemitted before or after the other. (I hope that you get the idea.) This should be useful for creating baddies or bosses that "phase out" of a level as part of their scripting, or that need to be emitted, yet receive some sort of signal from an external source. Actually, when I switched from the OR gate design to the new design, my thermo went DOWN by about 5%, I think the OR gates with a lot of inputs are bad for the thermo.

2011-06-29 01:15:00 Author: sp0ngyraver Posts: 407

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Do logic inside microchups take up thermo?

2011-06-29 01:30:00 Author: Cactii Posts: 426

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@sp0ngy: Was that with or without the microchips open? My levels vary by 3-4 segments depending on whether the MC's are open or closed.

2011-06-29 01:33:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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@sp0ngy: Was that with or without the microchips open? My levels vary by 3-4 segments depending on whether the MC's are open or closed. It WAS when it was open, but the new sequencer being opened used up a lot less thermo than the old style microchip being open. In the end the difference would be minimal, but it DOES make a big difference in create mode. The OR gates can create a lot of lag in create mode, it can get bad enough to be unworkable sometimes. But I don't think the tag/tag sensors add much to the thermo. Even with all microchips closed the end result was not any higher than the original OR gate design. It may have been minimal in play mode, but made a HUGE difference in create mode. This method also makes it much easier to modify your sequence. You don't have to bother with unhooking and reconnecting any wires, you simply move your tags around.

2011-06-29 01:44:00 Author: sp0ngyraver Posts: 407

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Well, if there was ANY savings at all, I'm sold. Switching over to full tag setup now.

2011-06-29 01:51:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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Certain switches use up more thermo than others. I find that AND gates with a lot of inputs don't cause as much lag or thermo as the OR gates. I'd be interested to find out which gates have the most impact on lag and thermo at various settings. Keeping in mind that the difference in Play Mode will be minimal. It's mostly data for use in Create Mode.

2011-06-29 02:14:00 Author: sp0ngyraver Posts: 407

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In a current level i am making, it required increasing difficulty, which involved 14 emitters, i had 10 stages of difficulty, which meant 140 wires! 10 to each emitter. I switched to my tag method, so much better, because now, if i need to change the emitters, i only have to wire up 14 different tag sensors, not 140! Plus, wires look so messy!

2011-06-29 09:39:00 Author: Bang126 Posts: 157

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You did a fantastic job on this!

2011-06-29 12:21:00 Author: Unknown User

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