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#1

Maybe I am just stupid, Making a ball or object move with a power guage.

Archive: 8 posts


How does one go about doing this ? I can't find a single tutorial or video for it.

I've been trying forever and I think it has something to do with a .....

Modified Time to a mover (although I can't figure out how to do it)
And a holographic piece to signify direction and probalby some type of follower or a sensor to make it follow in the direction ?

Anyone know how to do this ?
2011-02-22 02:26:00

Author:
Veldimare
Posts: 4


What do you mean by power gauge?2011-02-22 02:53:00

Author:
Yofig
Posts: 288


You just hook the timer or counter up to the mover and set the mover input type to speed scale. Whatever the timer is set to will be the % of total speed that your object moves.

So, say you have a ball with a mover on it set to speed scale with a speed of 4. Now you have the timer hooked up filled to 25%. Your movers speed will be scaled to one. If the timer is filled 50% it will scale to 2. There is a slight discrepancy in the timers though, so if you need pinpoint accuracy on the speed scaling a counter is more accurate. A counter doesn't offer the smoothness and ease of adjustment that a timer does though, so it just depends on what you need.

Another thing to keep in mind is that AND gates will pass along the lowest analog value received when there are two inputs. If you attach a switch of some sort to an AND gate, and attach your scaling device (timer or counter) into the other input, then the gate will pass your scale amount through when the switch is active.
2011-02-22 07:55:00

Author:
tdarb
Posts: 689


Funnily enough i made exactly what you're looking for the other day as one of my 'hmm i wonder how thats done' experiments... I'm doing allot of those at the moment.

Currently it works from 0 DC to +100 DC with a granularity of 10% increments on DC input to the mover. It works via a 4 second build up (timer), a release switch and a sequencer holding various batteries.

I cant get onto the computer right now (My lady has comandeered the TV) but i will provide pictures as soon as can. Right now though i'll try and explain from memory how its wired up and the theory behind it.

The timer (set to forwards/backwards) takes input from any button (i used X) on a controlinator. The timer outputs into a sequencer set to possitional. On the sequencer are batteries, 10 of them, end to end, they go from 0 DC output, up through to 100 DC output in increments of 10.

All of the batteries output to the same OR gate, the OR gate feeds into and AND gate. The other input on the AND gate is a release switch set to fire when the controlinator button being held down is released. ( A release switch is a NOT gate wired into a self resetting Counter set to 1). This provides the 2nd input to the AND gate along with the output of the specific battery that is under the current sequencer possition (depending on how long the button was held down > how much the timer built up > defining the possition the sequencer reaches > only battery at 'that' point will be giving an output into the OR gate)

The AND gate is simply inputting into an advanced mover, which on release of the button, will receive an input from which ever battery was active at that point.

A bit of further info. If, for example, the Timer is set to 4 seconds, holding the button down for 2 seconds will output an analogue current of +50 DC. If held for 1 second it will output an analogue signal of 20% (not 25% as its not possible to output increments finer than 10% steps, you can if you want too, just increase the amount of batteries in the sequencer and decrease the % step for each battery. You could even go as far as 1% increases with 100 batteries, this though is still not as fine a granularity as the base engines capabilities of analogue input registry).

So, say the advanced mover is set to a speed of 30. If the button is held for 2 seconds, the ball will move at a speed of 15. Easy shtuffs. Good to keep in mind though.

There's probably an easier way to do this, allowing no degradation in granularity for the base engine's. But for the amount of time i spent on it, quite breifly, the sequencer > battery idea was the only way i figured at that point in time to stop the analogue input moving the object untill a desired threshold is reached, I.E. the button is released.

Simply having a timer inputting into a mover will increase the speed at which the object moves from the point the button is held, and not in one quick relative burst of DC input at the point the button is released.

Seeming as you're trying to figure out how to get this sorted I now haveea reason to go back and look into this a little deeper. I'll figure out a way to stop the granularity degradation so there is a smooth and more importantly completely accurate relationships between the DC output from the timer and the DC input into the advanced mover at the end of the signal chain.

For the time being though, i hope this helped.
2011-02-22 10:03:00

Author:
Epicurean Dreamer
Posts: 224


We all have our moments...2011-02-22 10:10:00

Author:
Unknown User


Yup, seems like i did over complicate it a bit the first time round. All you need is this setup:

http://i1.lbp.me/img/ft/511f8a9f7b0c128e33832715eb80b0fe28023c5f.jpg

top left timer is set to 4 seconds and forwards/backwards. You can have this timer's time set to whatever though, depending on how long you want it to take to fully charge up the movement burst.
Timer Feeds into AND gate. Release switch feeds into second input on AND gate, both inputs to Timer and Release switch come from the same source.
AND gate feeds into advanced mover.

Theory: AND gate won't output till it has all (here 2) inputs in a true state. When it DOES output the analogue signal will be the amount the timer has built up as the 100% output from the full counter is ignored > AND gates only allow through the lowest analogue signal of all inputs.

The settings on the advanced mover ARE IMPORTANT. Accelleration set to 100% but decelleration set to 15% Any lower and the object takes forever to stop, any higher and the object stops pretty abruptly. I've found setting decelleration to 15% gives the most natural flow to the slow down effect.

For aiming simply input the DCS's right/left output from either of the sticks into an advanced rotator. Tweak settings to your preference.

To get the 'build up' colour changing effect on the holo pointer as you charge simply plug the output of the timer into the holo, set the holo to 'dimmer', set the colour when off colour to your preference and set its brightness to 0, Now set your colour when on colour as omething different and set its brightness to 100%. Now as the timer builds up the holo will appear as a dim version of your off colour and flow into a bright 'on' colour smoothly, mixing the two colours inbetween as it builds. Check it out.

To get everything wireless simply use tags and sensors where relevent, remember that if a tag is transmitting analogue input set the receiving sensors input to 'closeness'. That way the analogue signal % will transmit instead of a basic 'on' state.
2011-02-22 13:22:00

Author:
Epicurean Dreamer
Posts: 224


Sweet thanks everyone for the info I was racking my brain didn't even think of the scale speed or anything. It took me so long to find this post used to gamefaqs where I click on my name ! Imma try all this stuff out asap I will let you all know how it goes. Thanks again!2011-02-26 06:20:00

Author:
Veldimare
Posts: 4


i was working on just the same thing for my golf game with no luck, thank you very much. Was about to post for some help, i'll be giving this a try later on thxs again.2011-02-26 15:40:00

Author:
Flaming-Wreckage
Posts: 54


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