Archive: 80 posts

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Post your random bits of information here; things that you learned while experimenting, that are not enough for a tutorial on its own, but still worth knowing by your fellow creators. I'll start sharing my own experiences. Did you know that... ...Tags can be wired up and therefore be activated? No more need to emit tags like in LBP1. ...instead of 8 unique tag/tag sensor combinations like in LBP1, the number of combinations are now endless? All you need to do is set a label on your tag and match it at the tag sensor to create a unique pair. The colors are there just for overview and organization. Unlabeled tags of one color still set off unlabeled sensors of the same color, though. ...Selectors are ideal for switching between phases of logic on an object? Instead of complex NOT and AND gate magic, throw a Selector in there, hook up the triggers of each phase to its inputs and the output to its corresponding effects. ...you can stick microchips on the circuit boards of existing microchips and organize your logic that way? ...you can enable and disable entire subsections of logic by putting them on a separate microchip and connecting a wire to that chip? ...most logic objects (Timers, Selectors, Sequencers, Microchips, most Movers and Rotators, Object Tweakers and Randomizers) do not require an active input but are set to ON per default unless they are wired up? This is useful when you have a dozen of effects happening at a certain decision point: instead of wiring them all up separately, stick 'em to a separate microchip and just activate the chip instead! ...you can not control the position on a Sequencer at the same time as switching it on? But there is a trick: stick the Sequencer (set to Positional) on a separate Microchip, hook up its input with whatever controls its position (a Counter or Timer...) and have another action turn on the microchip the Sequencer is sitting on. ....a NOT gate, set to Inverted and its output wired to its own input, can act as a very fast pulsing signal? You can then hook up its output to for instance a light or Halo material to make it blink faster than a timer could. ...a Counter set to maximum 1 can act as a memory switch? Once switched on, it stays on until something else sends a signal to its reset input. This is different from the Toggle switch in that the Toggle will be triggered whenever a new signal arrives and a Counter won't. Please share your experiences!

2011-02-01 09:07:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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I already posted this as a separate thread, but it got buried, but here's a neat little trick I discovered: If you hook up the outputs of a direction splitter to the opposite (+ to -, - to +) inputs of a direction combiner, the direction combiner's output now inverts the direction put into the direction splitter!

2011-02-01 15:05:00 Author: EliminatorZigma Posts: 173

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Tags can be used to send signals to an object you cannot directly wire to (emitted objects)... got something emitted that you want to control? wire the control to a tag, and place a tag sensor (set to signal strength) on the emitted object. Remote control, without having to use the controlinators.

2011-02-01 19:43:00 Author: Unknown User

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I definitely use Counters as permanent switches. Pretty much the first thing I learned. I guess to contribute: One of the faster ways to activate something before your sackboy spawns (such as a cutscene) is putting a tag sensor on it, then before you leave your Create mode, put the corresponding tag in its field. And a great way to manage all of your activate tags is to hang them on a circuit board on unseen parts of your level.

2011-02-01 19:59:00 Author: Unknown User

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Not only can you switch out the image on microchips, you can sticker the insides of them! Great for OCD coders.

2011-02-02 03:46:00 Author: Yofig Posts: 288

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Not only can you switch out the image on microchips, you can sticker the insides of them! Great for OCD coders. How do you switch out the image on Microchips?

2011-02-02 13:42:00 Author: smerf1 Posts: 108

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How do you switch out the image on Microchips? Use the sticker edit tool to take it out! How do you use counters as a permaswitch"?

2011-02-02 19:20:00 Author: Krondelo Posts: 136

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How do you switch out the image on Microchips? Sticker tool bro Another nice trick to convert a steady output into a one shot mid circuit is hooking it into a 0 to 1, self resetting counter.

2011-02-02 19:23:00 Author: lionhart180 Posts: 200

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How do you use counters as a permaswitch"? See this thread (https://lbpcentral.lbp-hub.com/index.php?t=43914-How-to-Make-a-Permanent-Switch).

2011-02-02 20:11:00 Author: Aya042 Posts: 2870

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You don't need to save objects to be able to emit them. Just select the emitter, open up the menu where you can select object to emit, and just use the direct capture-tool to select your object. Much faster, and you save a lot of Saved Objects-space.

2011-02-03 23:40:00 Author: Unknown User

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You can turn off the create pause mode hum/drone, by turning off the "background noise" in the level's global controls. <3

2011-02-04 01:20:00 Author: midnight_heist Posts: 2513

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You can turn off the create pause mode hum/drone, by turning off the "background noise" in the level's global controls. <3 LOL I remember that!

2011-02-04 02:42:00 Author: grayspence Posts: 1990

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Tags can be used to send signals to an object you cannot directly wire to (emitted objects)... got something emitted that you want to control? wire the control to a tag, and place a tag sensor (set to signal strength) on the emitted object. Remote control, without having to use the controlinators. Not only that... About a week ago, I was messing around with the new logic system when I learned that you can set music and global settings in a circuitboard. It doesn't matter if it's in a microchip, a controllinator, or even a sackbot! With the press of a button, for example, you can go from bright and clear with something like the Gardens theme playing to dark and foggy with Nightwish blasting out your speakers! If that turns out to not exactly be your taste, you can hook everything up so you can have the more positive scenery once more and switch back and forth with either one or two buttons. With this new and improved logic and circuit system, you can manipulate the entire level if you want to!

2011-02-05 11:09:00 Author: ButchInZero Posts: 58

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If you want something to be activated fast and then go of (like a light or a magnetic key), just place a counter, set it to one maximum, connect its output to its reset. Now it will send a fast on signal then turn off. Did you know Sackboys inside DCS still activate detectors ? Oh, by using the capture tool with the emiter (to emmit something that is in your level instead of in your bag) you can modify the object and it will modify what will be emited. Then you delete the object and the emitter still works.

2011-02-05 22:13:00 Author: Unknown User

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I also found out this fancy trick! If your collection of items you've obtained from the community is getting full, especially if a lot of those items are microchips, stickers, and sequenced music, you can put all of those into a single microchip and save it all as one single item! One problem, though. Every single chip and music stored in that microchip will be activated unless there's a way to leave them all off. The solution? Another chip and a counter. Put the chip with all the stuff inside into the empty chip. Put the counter, which should be empty, into the empty chip also and hook it up to the chip with the stuff inside. One suggestion if you plan on using those items directly for your levels: Put in notes of the creators of all the items stored in the chip. This is especially important for the stickers. The names of the creators of the music and chips will be kept, but it'll be a lot quicker to recognize who made what with notes. The names of those who made the stickers will not be kept, so notes will be especially important for those.

2011-02-06 00:43:00 Author: ButchInZero Posts: 58

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One interesting little thing I've been experimenting with is the "signal strength" output type on game cameras, specifically, using them as follow-cams on sackbots or vehicles, but making 5 different follow-cams instead of one. There is a "middle" camera, which is just set to a straight-on, flat angle of whatever the player is controlling, and is activated by default. But there are 4 other cameras, set to identical zoom as the middle-cam, but angled in the four cardinal directions (ie, one camera is "looking" to the left, one up, etc). Then you hook the outputs of the controlinator's sixaxis up to directional splitters, and hook them up to their respective cameras. So what you get is a camera that will follow whatever you're controlling, but change angle depending on which way and how far you're tilting your controller. And guess what? You can even do three, six, even eighteen of these setups in microchips that are all activated by a single selector, so you can have a whole bunch of different zoom levels that all change angle with the controller tilt. It had pretty neat results when I tested it, if anybody else wants to try I'd love to hear what you do with it.

2011-02-07 16:26:00 Author: jdteather314 Posts: 74

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Sometimes, when you want something in time with the music; using the music sequencer with chips labeled 1, 2,3 and 4 for each beat of the bar; you can make anything in the level react with these chips using a chip sensor.

2011-02-07 17:03:00 Author: flamingemu Posts: 1872

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I've found it much much easier to organize controllinator inputs on a circuit board by passing them all through an embedded microchip that sits near the image of the ps3 controller. This way if your controllinator likes to rotate, it doesn't make it incredibly odd to see the circuits since they've all been stamped down to one spot on the circuit board before going through your logic. Also, regarding an earlier post, why are you shutting off a sequencer that works on positional input? Wouldn't it be easier to just control the positional input using an and gate and a battery you can turn on and off? That way the '0% is your 'off' position, and when you want to activate the sequencer, just turn on the battery (it can be on a powered microchip to make it easier...) so that your wanted analog signal passes through the and gate to the sequencer without having to actually turn the sequencer on. If your control signal is digital-only, you can do away with the battery and just connect it directly to the and gate. This gets you around the need to actually turn on the sequencer. It's always on, but uses '0%' input as its off state. (alternatively, you can use '%100' as the off state and use an 'or' gate.) One last tip i've found. Positional sequencers can be set to loop. This is probably a bad thing because %100 signals get looped back to %0 without warning, which can cause all kinds of interesting things to happen if you don't expect it. Check this setting if you notice certain things on your sequencer not happening when you give it a full %100 signal.

2011-02-07 17:51:00 Author: Vandalite Posts: 20

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This isn't really to do with logic, but did you know that the water projectile changes colour depending on the colour of the global water?

2011-02-07 18:20:00 Author: FlipMeister Posts: 631

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This isn't really to do with logic, but did you know that the water projectile changes colour depending on the colour of the global water? Sweet, I definitely didn't know that.

2011-02-07 19:45:00 Author: Krondelo Posts: 136

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Also, regarding an earlier post, why are you shutting off a sequencer that works on positional input? Wouldn't it be easier to just control the positional input using an and gate and a battery you can turn on and off? That way the '0% is your 'off' position, and when you want to activate the sequencer, just turn on the battery (it can be on a powered microchip to make it easier...) so that your wanted analog signal passes through the and gate to the sequencer without having to actually turn the sequencer on. If your control signal is digital-only, you can do away with the battery and just connect it directly to the and gate. This gets you around the need to actually turn on the sequencer. It's always on, but uses '0%' input as its off state. (alternatively, you can use '%100' as the off state and use an 'or' gate.) So you can turn batteries ON and OFF? That I did not know. I thought they were output only.

2011-02-08 07:59:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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I already posted this as a separate thread, but it got buried, but here's a neat little trick I discovered: If you hook up the outputs of a direction splitter to the opposite (+ to -, - to +) inputs of a direction combiner, the direction combiner's output now inverts the direction put into the direction splitter! lol whats the point you can just invert it.

2011-02-09 02:06:00 Author: Jboy1995 Posts: 48

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I don't know if this has been posted before but you can activate control seats by placing them in a microchip and activating the microchip.

2011-02-09 02:09:00 Author: cheesemuffins99 Posts: 102

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lol whats the point you can just invert it. It works most effectively if you hook it up to a DCS or want to change the movement style of the same object.

2011-02-09 03:33:00 Author: EliminatorZigma Posts: 173

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... "signal strength" output type on game cameras... I've messed with this quite a bit and I really liked the results, but the downside is that, unlike in lbp1, in lbp2, hooking a wire into a game camera causes it to ignore its zone. This means that a triggered game camera will affect all players (even in versus levels), rather than just the one using the camera.

2011-02-09 08:07:00 Author: Sehven Posts: 2188

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...in lbp2, hooking a wire into a game camera causes it to ignore its zone. It does? Strange, I found the zone always applied when I was testing it yesterday. Movie Cameras, OTOH, seem to ignore the zone.

2011-02-09 08:23:00 Author: Aya042 Posts: 2870

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So you can turn batteries ON and OFF? That I did not know. I thought they were output only. Normally, that's true, but if you stick the battery on an embedded microchip, the battery will shut off if the signal to the *bottom* of the chip is shut off. This allows you to use an analog signal (such as the one coming off a timer or player sensor) to generate a clean digital "on" that doesn't mess with the AND gate's logic. I'll try to map it out below inputs: 1) Sequencer positional signal 2) Sequencer control signal 1 --------->|---| |AND| --> sequencer Chip -->|---| 2 ----^ The chip just contains a battery set to 100% output. This is how you can turn a battery on and off. If your control signal is a perfect digital signal (%100 on), you can do away with the chip and its battery completely. The reason you're doing this is because if the control signal is analog and if you do *not* use it to power a relay, the control signal can interfere with the positional signal when they both hit the AND gate and the weaker of the two signals will always be the one picked. This will probably cause results you don't expect. Switches are an example of a clean digital signal, but timers and sensors in particular output analog signals depending on the proximity of the sensor or the remaining time on the timer.

2011-02-09 20:18:00 Author: Vandalite Posts: 20

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I've messed with this quite a bit and I really liked the results, but the downside is that, unlike in lbp1, in lbp2, hooking a wire into a game camera causes it to ignore its zone. This means that a triggered game camera will affect all players (even in versus levels), rather than just the one using the camera. I assumed this would be the case, and figured it would only be useful in one-player applications anyway. It does? Strange, I found the zone always applied when I was testing it yesterday. Movie Cameras, OTOH, seem to ignore the zone. Wait.. So are you saying that this could have potential implications for multiplayer gameplay?? What were your testing condtions?

2011-02-10 03:19:00 Author: jdteather314 Posts: 74

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Wait.. So are you saying that this could have potential implications for multiplayer gameplay?? What were your testing condtions? Just re-tested this. My application is to create separate camera views for all player in a versus level. I attached a Controlinator to a piece of hologram, added an Advanced Mover hooked up to the left stick, and a Game Camera tweaked to zoom out to 50% with a very tight zone hooked up to the X button. When played with two players, each has their own camera view, and can zoom out their own view by pressing X, without affecting the view of the other players.

2011-02-10 04:20:00 Author: Aya042 Posts: 2870

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That's incredible. So.. Versus levels are the only ones where players can have independent cameras, correct? And you just set the camera activation zones to sit tightly around the controlinator, yes? Did you experiment at all with crossing the streams? Like what would happen if two players' camera zones overlapped?

2011-02-10 14:31:00 Author: jdteather314 Posts: 74

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lol whats the point you can just invert it. maybe because you would still need a combiner to combine the two outputs to a single input for a mover etc?

2011-02-10 14:35:00 Author: Unknown User

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So.. Versus levels are the only ones where players can have independent cameras, correct? Sadly, yes. Would've been nice if they'd made the game scoring system independent of the camera control system. Plus it'll still be an epic fail case for two local players. I suppose you could do a bit of math to automatically zoom out as they get further from each other, and add something to prevent them from straying to the point where one of the two starts getting counted out. And you just set the camera activation zones to sit tightly around the controlinator, yes? Yes. Did you experiment at all with crossing the streams? Like what would happen if two players' camera zones overlapped? Unfortunately when you "cross the streams" each player's camview becomes an average of the two views (which is how Game Cams have always worked). Obviously the tighter you can make the zone, the less likely this is to happen, and I suppose you could add some additional movers to attempt to repel the holograms so you can't cross the streams, but I'm not sure that would be any better than just leaving it as-is. Edit: You may also be interested in reading this thread (https://lbpcentral.lbp-hub.com/index.php?t=48551-Game-Camera-activation-scale-bugged) about a bug with Game Cams which makes them a little less flexible than they ought to be.

2011-02-10 15:19:00 Author: Aya042 Posts: 2870

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inputs: 1) Sequencer positional signal 2) Sequencer control signal 1 --------->|---| |AND| --> sequencer Chip -->|---| 2 ----^ The chip just contains a battery set to 100% output. This is how you can turn a battery on and off. If your control signal is a perfect digital signal (%100 on), you can do away with the chip and its battery completely. The reason you're doing this is because if the control signal is analog and if you do *not* use it to power a relay, the control signal can interfere with the positional signal when they both hit the AND gate and the weaker of the two signals will always be the one picked. This will probably cause results you don't expect. Switches are an example of a clean digital signal, but timers and sensors in particular output analog signals depending on the proximity of the sensor or the remaining time on the timer. Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding, but you want the positional signal to be passed to the sequencer as-is if the control signal is digital 1, and be off if the control signal is digital 0, right? Why not just make a chip with a circuit node and pass the positional signal through that? If the enable wire is connected but digital 0 it makes all the chip's wires go to 0, otherwise the signal passes through unaltered (except for 2-way/3-way issues (https://lbpcentral.lbp-hub.com/index.php?t=47189-Just-when-I-think-I-ve-worked-out-everything-I-need-to-test-regarding-Logic...) but that's another can of worms entirely). I use that all the time to control a signal without otherwise changing it; this picture (http://i8.lbp.me/img/ft/4c8149c07c039561b8cc30e0becd109b9854bb6f.jpg) has 4 of them around the middle and lower right.

2011-02-10 22:34:00 Author: Balorn Posts: 92

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... why didn't I think of that? but yeah, you still can use the chip to turn a battery off. that feature is still handy in certain cases.

2011-02-11 21:10:00 Author: Vandalite Posts: 20

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Just re-tested this....When played with two players, each has their own camera view, and can zoom out their own view by pressing X, without affecting the view of the other players. Ah, that's cool. I had problems with it in the beta and did some experiments and I thought that the conditions I described were true. Either I didn't experiment enough or it's been fixed since then. Either way, good to know it's possible, 'cuz I had really wanted the independent camera control.

2011-02-12 04:13:00 Author: Sehven Posts: 2188

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lol whats the point you can just invert it. Inversion doesn't work that way, not on analogue signals. If your ingoing signal to a NOT is 100%, it outputs 0. If it goes in at -100% (negative 100), it gives... 0. It basically returns 100 - |input|, that is the absolute value of the input, subtracted from one hundred. So if it goes in at -45%, you get 55% out. The trick EliminatorZigma gave will return the negation of it. So if you give it -55%, you get 55%, if you send in 100%, you get -100%, etc. This is useful for things like movers or rotators, or other cases that take a signed signal.

2011-02-12 10:37:00 Author: Unknown User

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I don't know if this has been posted before but you can activate control seats by placing them in a microchip and activating the microchip. I just tested this in create mode and could not get it to work. Even when the controlinator's trigger range was 5000 and auto-enter was enabled, activating the microchip did nothing. Has anyone had any luck with this?

2011-02-12 19:58:00 Author: sny Posts: 144

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I just tested this in create mode and could not get it to work. Even when the controlinator's trigger range was 5000 and auto-enter was enabled, activating the microchip did nothing. Has anyone had any luck with this? You have to have it be a receiver that is either controlled by a transmitter or nearest player; normal controllinators only work if you put them inside the level, not in microchips. Otherwise, the MC would either have to open up and sackboy (or bot) would be riding in a contorllinator within an MC. (Not that this is possible)

2011-02-12 21:14:00 Author: Unknown User

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I see, thanks for clearing that up.

2011-02-13 00:04:00 Author: sny Posts: 144

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Once you create a circuit node on a circuit board, you can move it off the circuit board into the level; but you can never tweak it to be invisible in play mode. When you delete a circuit node, all the connections through it become direct connections; this can be used for temporarily organizing wiring while working on things.

2011-02-14 22:30:00 Author: Tygers Posts: 114

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Local Space Game Camera Bug Workaround It is becoming commonly known that the game cameras do not seem to work properly with the local space setting, in that the view on screen does not preserve the game camera's orientation if the camera gets rotated. This is unlike the behavior of the movie cameras, and is hopefully considered a bug by MM, but as of 1.01 it has not been patched. To work around this, you can have the game camera mounted on a wheel that is in turn mounted on the thing you want to track. You can then have the game camera's wheel spin in double time in the opposite direction as the tracked thing, and doing so will cause the tracked thing to appear stationary while everything else rotates around it. Note that to avoid the camera frame kind of drifting about your tracking target, you need to make sure the center of the camera's wheel is aligned with the rotational center of the tracking target, and that the camera is mounted on the same center point of the camera's wheel.

2011-02-15 07:49:00 Author: LittleBigDave Posts: 324

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NOT gates can be tweaked to no longer negate the signal passed through them, turning them into tweakable circuit nodes.

2011-02-17 12:29:00 Author: Unknown User

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I don't know if this has been posted anywhere on here, but I was just fooling around, and noticed that placing the "glow-bulb-on-stick" decoration onto a piece of holo will change its colour to whatever the holo's colour is set to! WHOA! I imagine any other light-emitting decorations from LBP2 might act similarly; haven't tested this, but figured this alone was interesting enough a find, considering decorations are otherwise untweakable.

2011-02-18 05:05:00 Author: jdteather314 Posts: 74

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I don't know if this has been posted anywhere on here, but I was just fooling around, and noticed that placing the "glow-bulb-on-stick" decoration onto a piece of holo will change its colour to whatever the holo's colour is set to! WHOA! I imagine any other light-emitting decorations from LBP2 might act similarly; haven't tested this, but figured this alone was interesting enough a find, considering decorations are otherwise untweakable. That's a brilliant find. Can the holo be invisible and still work to change the colour of the orb?

2011-02-18 06:49:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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That's a brilliant find. Can the holo be invisible and still work to change the colour of the orb? I tested it, and if you go to zero bright on the holo the orb will come out black (though if you're in pause, it won't until you unpause). This is indeed a very cool find.

2011-02-18 11:04:00 Author: LittleBigDave Posts: 324

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I tested it, and if you go to zero bright on the holo the orb will come out black (though if you're in pause, it won't until you unpause). This is indeed a very cool find. So I just confirmed that this effect will occur from placing the glowlight stick decoration on ANY material with a tweakable colour property. (ie Neon, any of the glass "filter" materials, animated grid, etc..) Could anybody provide me with a list of all materials with tweakable colour properties? Just wanna make sure I haven't missed any; this is getting me all excited. EDIT: Yet another discovery! In THIS thread (https://lbpcentral.lbp-hub.com/index.php?t=49974-A-Fog-Of-War-Effect-for-top-down-games), LittleBigDave decided to apply this technique to a kind of "fog-of-war" effect for top-down strategy games.. Upon reading, my first thought was "if you resize the material with the light stick on it to some arbitrarily large size, won't that make the light stick end up going waaaaay out into the foreground layers, to the point of not being visible anymore?" But it DOESN'T! For some reason, if the decoration is placed on a material and then resized, it only resizes the radius of the 'circle', and does not affect the height of the light stick whatsoever! ..WHOA!

2011-02-18 15:15:00 Author: jdteather314 Posts: 74

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So I just confirmed that this effect will occur from placing the glowlight stick decoration on ANY material with a tweakable colour property. (ie Neon, any of the glass "filter" materials, animated grid, etc..) ..WHOA! This just keeps getting better. Not only will this color tweak also work for the Avalonian "Light Stud" decoration, but, the same concept holds true for the ANIMATION RATE of LBP2 animated decorations. This includes the stop watch, the spinning spiral, and all the sackbot eye emotes.

2011-02-19 10:19:00 Author: LittleBigDave Posts: 324

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It gets better yet! You can set the colour and brightness of the deco on ANY material. Simply turn your object into Holo or Neon, set the properties you want for the deco stuck on it, and then turn the object back into the normal material you want. The illumination properties are recorded with the object even if not exposed for changing for non-lighting materials, and the decoration inherits those hidden colour and brightness properties.

2011-02-22 12:21:00 Author: Shifty Geezer Posts: 131

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Holy cow, Shifty geezer! That's amazing!!!!!!!!

2011-02-22 18:52:00 Author: Boscoe Posts: 51

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Possibly common knowledge, but I just found out that you can mirror logic objects on circuit boards as well by using R3. If you are as obsessed with circuit layout as I am, this is a godsend.

2011-02-27 09:07:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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Careful with rotating them though, rotates around center, as well as each individual piece. Also, when reflecting sensors, they sometimes glitch, managed to make my tag sensor for 90 degrees detect 90 degrees off to the left instead of straight ahead.

2011-02-27 09:14:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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Just playing around with microchips and stuff, you can actually put a material tweaker on a water bubble so you can grab it. In play mode, it won't disappear if you grab it, but will if you touch it with the rest of your body. Since you can also make a bubble hang from the ceiling with a wire, this may lead to some interesting things for these frustrating platform levels lovers.

2011-02-27 10:07:00 Author: ColmiYveul Posts: 58

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Cool, for some reason I am having trouble finding the lightstick though, I know I have it! Also where do you get those lightbulb wire lights, pretty sure I should have those too..

2011-02-27 16:49:00 Author: Krondelo Posts: 136

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Cool, for some reason I am having trouble finding the lightstick though, I know I have it! Also where do you get those lightbulb wire lights, pretty sure I should have those too.. You mean the eye on a stalk? It is in the decorations (popit > stickers > 2nd page).

2011-03-01 13:31:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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Cool, for some reason I am having trouble finding the lightstick though, I know I have it! Also where do you get those lightbulb wire lights, pretty sure I should have those too.. The decoration we were discussing above is more properly called the Glow Light On Stalk, I believe. It comes from the Cakeinator level, and so will be found under Victoria's stuff if you sort your decorations by theme. Its icon looks like a ball of light. I don't know what you mean by light bulb wire lights, but if it's one of the Lights objects, you'd find it in your objects menu, under Collected Objects page, and under Lights (when organized by category).

2011-03-01 14:02:00 Author: LittleBigDave Posts: 324

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The decoration we were discussing above is more properly called the Glow Light On Stalk, I believe. It comes from the Cakeinator level, and so will be found under Victoria's stuff if you sort your decorations by theme. Its icon looks like a ball of light. I don't know what you mean by light bulb wire lights, but if it's one of the Lights objects, you'd find it in your objects menu, under Collected Objects page, and under Lights (when organized by category). Hm, I actually found the second thing I was talking about, in retrospect it sounds dumb how I described it. I meant the lightbulb filliment. About the Glow Light on Stalk, I will have to look for that.. I didn't know you could organize your stuff by theme? I suppose I could go to that level and look at my objexts from there though so thanks!

2011-03-02 01:53:00 Author: Krondelo Posts: 136

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To organise your PopIt stuff, move onto a category subheading and press Square.

2011-03-02 14:05:00 Author: Shifty Geezer Posts: 131

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don't know if many people know of this little nifty thing with tags and tag sensors, but if you set the tag sensor to closeness and put the tag on something moveable, moving that object around within the sensors range will output a dynamic analogue value depending on the distance between the tag and the sensor. you can do some pretty interesting things with this if you feed the input into, for example, an advanced mover on the same object as the sensor. It sort of mimicks the 'follow' behavior of Bots, you can also play about with it to have things intelligently follow the tag but maintain a distance. Think of this as a completely wireless and material-less 'connector' attaching 2 materials. Yes i know you're thinking "follower" but this actually 'maintains' a distance rather than follow dead on center, or folow until its too close, then stop till minimum range has been passed, then begin following again. You can also combine this with a sequencer set to possitional and have batteries at certain analogue thresholds to trigger events when specific distances between the tag object and the sensor are hit. so on and so forth. Its a really nifty combination of components imo, and really open ended in how many ways you can implement it into ideas and whatnot.

2011-03-02 19:25:00 Author: Epicurean Dreamer Posts: 224

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Seems to me that you can never know enough about logic. I was looking for ways of making a perma-switch and never thought about those things. Man, I'm such a sacking noob >.< Thanks for the tips!

2011-03-07 19:00:00 Author: SnipySev Posts: 2452

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Seems to me that you can never know enough about logic. I was looking for ways of making a perma-switch and never thought about those things. Man, I'm such a sacking noob >.< Thanks for the tips! Haha me too man, I just can't think as "logically" as I wish I did. Because when I see some of these solutions I feel so stupid for not figuring it out.

2011-03-07 22:18:00 Author: Krondelo Posts: 136

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Today I learned that Sackbots can be equipped with a Controlinator that accepts INPUT. This way it becomes incredibly easy to have a bot jump, grab or fire a paint gun (like they did in Story mode). Also: ownership data gets broadcasted over activated tags and can be picked up anywhere by tag sensors; when these are hooked to score givers, you get some interesting results.

2011-03-10 03:05:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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I didn't know any of these things great more goodies for my little sackie mind to play with.

2011-03-14 19:09:00 Author: Unknown User

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Haha! Most of these little nifty tips are lessons I have learned sometimes by coincidence.. But every time I sit there awestruck thinking "Oh Come On!! Seriously??". Here's a little nugget for Sackbots and controlinators: If you want certain conditions to be met before a sackbot can enter a automatically entered controlinator, just wire a max 1 counter set to 1 to the Eject player input on the controlinator. When the conditions are met, wire this AND gate(or whatever) to the reset on the controlinator and voila, the sackbot takes a seat. This can also be used for reusing the same controlinator over and over. Just wire the desired button for entering to the reset and the desired button for ejecting to the Increment input. How come they're not mentioned in the tutorials?? It would save people indoctrinated by LBP1 a lot of time!

2011-03-17 20:15:00 Author: Discosmurf Posts: 210

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don't know if many people know of this little nifty thing with tags and tag sensors, but if you set the tag sensor to closeness and put the tag on something moveable, moving that object around within the sensors range will output a dynamic analogue value depending on the distance between the tag and the sensor. This is indeed true, but with LBP1, and it seems more so, LBP2, the resulting signal does not give a smooth analogue output. A great pity, but it's very jittery. Now, this may not matter depending on the situation, but if you do need a smooth up or down analogue transition signal, you can also use the timer in LBP2.

2011-03-18 15:18:00 Author: Nakatsu Hime Posts: 59

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Not really related to logic, but here's a thing I noticed a while back, but I forgot to post about. When configuring a Level Link, if you press the triangle button when you're in the tweak menu, an additional "Progression" option appears which seems to do the same thing as it does in the Game Ender. Once you configure which level it links to, the option disappears, but it still takes effect. The only effect it seems to have is whether the current level is marked complete (with a gold Sackperson face on the level badge) or not (with a silver Sackperson face) when you go through the level link. Not sure it's all that useful really, and looks like a bug, so it might get removed in a later patch.

2011-03-18 15:50:00 Author: Aya042 Posts: 2870

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Today I learned that Sackbots can be equipped with a Controlinator that accepts INPUT. This way it becomes incredibly easy to have a bot jump, grab or fire a paint gun (like they did in Story mode). Also: ownership data gets broadcasted over activated tags and can be picked up anywhere by tag sensors; when these are hooked to score givers, you get some interesting results. I'm confused by both your observations. Sackbots cannot pick up a paint gun, so how can they fire one? Also, what do you mean by ownership data? And on another note, I still don't understand what the positional setting does on a sequencer. Can someone explain this to me in idiots terms?

2011-03-18 16:54:00 Author: Ungreth Posts: 2130

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Actually, they can use the Paintinator. If the Sackbot is set to allow the Creatinator, then it can also use the Paintinator. I would have thought it would be separate though, because not many people know about it, and I have had instances where I want the sackbot to be able to use one, but not the other... It's kinda strange...

2011-03-18 17:12:00 Author: Super_Clone Posts: 849

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And on another note, I still don't understand what the positional setting does on a sequencer. Can someone explain this to me in idiots terms? Whatever the strength of the input is is translated to the position on the sequencer. So if a counter at 5/10 is piped into a positional sequencer, it will land at 50% the length of the sequencer. It's incredibly handy because you can use specific inputs to basically pinpoint any position on a sequencer at will.

2011-03-18 17:16:00 Author: Chazprime Posts: 587

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I'm confused by both your observations. Sackbots cannot pick up a paint gun, so how can they fire one? Super_Clone explained it. Of course you can apply the controlinator input for any type of special action, like firing a creatinator.

2011-03-18 17:31:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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Also, what do you mean by ownership data? It's a special signal carried by wires (and wireless connections) which transmits the popit color of a player, to allow things like hologram set to "Player Color" to be fed by wires. For example, if you have a Player Sensor feeding into a piece of hologram set to "Player Color", then the hologram color is determined (IIRC) by the popit color of the player who triggered the Player Sensor. That signal also determines who gets the score when fed into a Score Giver. I would have thought it would be separate though... My guess is they did it that way to make the UI code simpler, otherwise it'd have to change based on whether or not you owned the MGS pack. They probably have it listed as a cosmetic 'bug' in their bug tracking system, but it'll be so low on the priority list, it's unlikely to be addressed any time soon.

2011-03-18 19:20:00 Author: Aya042 Posts: 2870

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Thanks to Clone, Chaz and Aya for clearing up my confusion on those three issues. I wish I'd known sooner about the paintinator thing, and the positional setting sounds ideal for an application I'm working on right now. The ownership data must be what I was noticing yesterday when score bubbles kept changing colour depending on which player was closest to them. Useful stuff to know...

2011-03-18 20:42:00 Author: Ungreth Posts: 2130

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It's a special signal carried by wires (and wireless connections) which transmits the popit color of a player, to allow things like hologram set to "Player Color" to be fed by wires. For example, if you have a Player Sensor feeding into a piece of hologram set to "Player Color", then the hologram color is determined (IIRC) by the popit color of the player who triggered the Player Sensor. That signal also determines who gets the score when fed into a Score Giver. It would be interesting to see how the logic of ownership data, so that we can better control who earns points for certain things. With many games, it might not even be obvious who "caused" something to happen, even from a human point of view (e.g. was it a deflection off the keeper or an own goal?) so it would be interesting to see how LBP2 implements it.

2011-03-18 21:31:00 Author: thor Posts: 388

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Yesterday I made a simple crane (to lift stuff with). In LBP1, we used to set pistons and wobbly bolts to directional and hook them up with 3-way levers; this way they move either in, out or not at all (when no signal is received). This time, in LBP2, I wired the sticks from a DCS to these pistons and bolts and suddenly there was no longer a 'null' signal (when I don't move any stick). Result was that pistons and bolts moved to either one side or the other but never stood still. I don't know if any of you recognize this, but I fixed it by taking the stick signal and fed it into a signal splitter. Then hooked that up to a signal combiner and gave that signal to the bolts/pistons. After that they worked the same as 3-way levers.

2011-03-21 08:42:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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Yeah, only recently did I realize that the reason I was achieving 0 values, rather than no value at all, was due to the combiner. You could say they are nearly identical, but the 0 value means there is no sign, thus no change, whereas no value could be treated as a negative.

2011-03-21 09:56:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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For a game camera to be assigned to a specific player in versus mode, it has to be activated through a signal that is 'owned' by that player - for example, a controllinator's 'active' signal. It doesn't suffice to confine the camera's zone so that only the player in question is in it.

2011-03-21 10:09:00 Author: tameturtle Posts: 150

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You can't use the d-pad on a controlinator as inputs without disabling the popit, unless you use two. (Experimenting with sackbots)

2011-03-21 21:30:00 Author: springs86 Posts: 785

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To have logic do something once and then switch off wire an xor with two counters set to count to one - Wire one to whatever will activate your circuit, and the other to whatever will shut it off. This is different to a toggle because repeat inputs won't shut it down (Since the counter has locked it in place), and the second counter will shut it off no matter what. If you need to reuse the circuit later you can reactivate it by resetting your counters. for example (one I've used). You have an item you want to catch fire when it receives an input and stay on fire until the player puts it out When it gives a score. Once it's out it stays out, even if the original input causing it to ignite is re-triggered. if you need ti to reignite (Such as after a certain time) you can hook a timer up to the resets.

2011-03-22 02:09:00 Author: HarlequinQB Posts: 4

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For a game camera to be assigned to a specific player in versus mode, it has to be activated through a signal that is 'owned' by that player - for example, a controllinator's 'active' signal. It doesn't suffice to confine the camera's zone so that only the player in question is in it. Time to get that versus level of mine out of the dustballs! This is what has kept me from publishing it and I could not put my finger on why people wouldn't see their own sackboy!! Thanks a lot!

2011-03-22 09:18:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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Burning holographic material does not get put out under water.

2011-03-22 22:34:00 Author: Antikris Posts: 1340

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That is likely a bug. The hologram ignores collisions, so it must ignore water as well (afaik).

2011-03-22 23:51:00 Author: SSTAGG1 Posts: 1136

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