Archive: 8 posts

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http://beta.lbp.me/img/bl/d722d9fcef5494c5330336c8df3f6073c0f514bb.png http://beta.lbp.me/v/hmmt This has been an ongoing project since Friday the 17th, and is the culmination of everything I've learned NOT to do when building my reiterative logic in recent weeks. This is not a computational device, it is entirely geared towards gameplay interface and function as a total foundation and go-to toolbox for creators with a good handle on their logic. I've reiterated it and added new functions since first published, and am pleased enough with it to post it as a project, since I will continue to iterate it as a middleware tool as needed. http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/71ab580bf69b7a58e949536940e7e1661fdd42a1.jpg http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/1d0414e8750cbd9f32fb289aa5a1674775fe54e3.jpg Here is the condensed chipset logic for the controllinator. My modus is symmetry, organization and identifiable design. http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/81ee94d59b6ee4998ff2ceb5879cdfd086926a21.jpg 2.00 has added a full set of all 8 color variations for every single tag, sensor and transmission on the All-In-1 Controllinator. A good 4 hours went into that tedious process alone and you will not have to change a thing for 4 player builds, or multi-seat communication. http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/4363ab0b36de73ffd31cdf5d9fafe97f5fff629f.jpg Here is a snap of the fully expanded logic contained in that tiny cross, crammed in to fit the picture frame. http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/934b78ee923f66928d10a5e02730eefd893717fe.jpg http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/17ada65734df430511e26872be435dd0587a8405.jpg This is the corresponding tag sensor set. Every tag is preset to a max radius of 5000, for the purpose of creating a total control receiver. All variants of signals (temporary, permanent, toggle, one-shot, selector-cycle, semi-permanent) have their own set, and are easily identified in function by their position on the mock dualshock button layouts. The intent is for these tags to be copied and pasted as needed with specific functions and behavior in forethought, to avoid labeling and setting the radius yourself. I've streamlined extremely complex sackbots into a single seat, a handful of microchips, and without a single wired input using this system and have been able to make them function with more fluidity and more actions. I stake my reputation that studying this design and practicing it will make your creative LBP'ing more productive, more impressive, and less stressful. The ultimate goal is to eliminate all prep-work and needlessly repeated motions of setting up the same tag and sensor routines, jumbled wired input/output messes, and save time and confusion in the long run. For the purpose of distribution, the chipset logic is much more spread out than it would normally be in private use, to accommodate the sticky notations. The level gives away all 8 color sets, a GREEN tag sensor set (changing your logic copy tag sets post-build is easier than pasting from multiple kit sets by color) since that is the default tag color you'll usually start with. There is also a small collection of button and status label stickers that can help with keeping your microchips organized, personalized, and easy to read. Finally, perfectly working double jump and gravity jump (+wall cancel chip) as scoreboard prizes.

2010-12-19 21:23:00 Author: Unknown User

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Looks complex. Maybe a bit too complex. Rich showed me a trick that would allow you to achieve the same ends without all the magnetic key switches. It boils down to using just a controller set to transmit and receiving it with two controllers. The first receiver controller is the standard the receiver, which mimics whatever is pressed on the the transmitting controller. The second receiver controller is set to override sackboy control, in the event that you are controlling a sackbot (if you are controlling something else, the second one becomes unnecessary). The second controller is also set to receiver, but it receives its inputs directly from wires on the first receiver controller. The two receiver controllers are placed on the same microchip, so the fact that there are wires running between them makes them still portable. The benefit of running the wires between the two receiver controllers is that you can intercept the signals and do whatever is desired (as your tool does). If you place a toggle between the two receiver controllers, then it will function as a toggle device. The same goes for a pulse generator, and so on. That's what I use for my Direct Control devices. It's pretty straightforward to me, which is why I didn't pick this one up when I played it. Cheers, mate.

2010-12-21 14:52:00 Author: comphermc Posts: 5338

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its hard to understand

2010-12-21 14:58:00 Author: Unknown User

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I have to be totally honest, I don't get what this is intended to achieve.... I get the impression you're doing more than just the reinventing the wheel that Matt suggests, but I can't work out what exactly. It does seem that that is the majority of the work you've done, implemented as many tag / sensor pairs where a single transmit-receive controlinator pair would do the trick, then added a few pieces of basic logic around that, to modify behaviours. Though as I say, I'm sure there is something I've missed here. Note: I'm not 100% sure, but it looks like you've got pairs of tags / sensors for the positive and negative signals from analogue sticks / D-Pads etc. IIRC, this isn't needed, tags can happily encode negative values. I like the Wu Tang button though

2010-12-21 15:16:00 Author: rtm223 Posts: 6497

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if you use 2 controllinators and use only receive and transmit, you will have to put a direction splitter on one of them to achieve Left & Right memory. Might as well be your transmitter, and presto, it's already been done on this seat for you. that's just ONE of a hundred or so functions that won't have to be built and wired at the receiver and/or won't ever have to be done by you an innumerable amount of times every single time you build a new device, and a new seat. Seats only have individual button input connectors when placed on sackbots. When placed on a chip or an object, they can only receive signals wirelessly, or by player control. If the seat is solo on an object, and receiving wireless transmissions, you cannot control what the signal from your player seat transmitter is sending to the receiver without sending a wireless tag signal, to a sensor receiver that does what my seat does OR by using direct wired connections. If you're controlling hundreds of objects ala telekinesis, that's hundreds of wires from one seat. If you're needing to control multiple objects at once and not in a vehicle-riding interface you're limiting the concept to, then these objects will be wired to each other, or have wires coming from the following player seat. So when anything needs to be replaced via emitters upon destruction, anything you have wired between objects is rendered useless. If you're in a following seat on a sackbot, and it's wired to the bot, your and the seat must die to be respawned when the bot dies. If you're not wired to it, then you're operating off wireless signals... which is what this is built to do in ways that are not specific to any scenario or context. Even if placed on a sackbot... if you want to have X have 3 different transitional functions based on preceeding inputs (ex: roll down right, hold, then double tap etc) functions, then you'd need 1 hub seat, leading to 3 seats by wires, with 3 wires coming from X on it's own seat (or between seats) and going into 1.) a toggle, 2.) a one-shot, and 3.) a selector cycle reset etc on top of that, if you're controlling the first seat through transmission, you cannot prevent X from having a HOLD-DOWN "temp" function without wiring a 4th output to a tag that later coincides with sensors to utilize it's function, or no sensor to prevent it's default hold function completely.... or wiring X to itself, and ultimately interfering with what the button does by default - unless intentional, a sackboy with no jumping animation is not a good call. If you want to use a single seat pair and dictate multiple functions for button input that's dictated by preceding or coinciding actions beyond the relay between the two seats, the inside of your seat is going to need a nice mess of ANDs, XORS, ORS, and grace-period reset timers depending on the amount of contextual button sequences you'll design. Another unnecessary mess. you can still put NOTS and whatnot between your tag sensor and your function. you won't lose that power, comph. Putting seats inside seats was alll the mistakes I made on brain ape. Last month's bad designs. It's really messy and limits functions in the long run, and requires more toggling than needed to manage. As you add functions to any wired design, and duplicate chipsets, your wires become progressively more of a mess and a hindrance. Especially once you want to rethink and rebuild, because deleting a wireless chip has no clean up involved. If you put it on your receiver you're cluttering your board with wired output/input. if you simply have every possible main function tucked away neatly on your transmitter seat, you can have a massively complex receiver seat with neatly organized and symmetrical chips for any and every function, by simply selecting your desired transmitter behavior via list or via premade switches. your receiver will be function chips containing receiver logic, and not one single button will have a wire coming from it, and no face chips will have an input. there is simply no cleaner way to do this level of multi function. plus, seats can only be disabled by putting them inside a chip and toggling the chip. Why put your functions or function chips on a seat, to put the seat on another chip, when you can just put the stand alone chip-receiver on one single seat. It requires a superfluous extra layer to use multiple seat receivers. Multiple seats is how I did Brain Ape, and since I've made this I can literally remove 75% of what's on my boards when I reiterate, and won't need corresponding seat colors on controllable objects, inside chips, to go inside seats and then inside another chip. I also want things to retain directional memory, rtm. One tag can't be left and right at the same time, it can only be either or. there's too many control schemes, interfaces and gameplay devices that won't work for. Yes, a function chip for every button-perm is relatively for show, but if the chip is duplicated, and then relayed in sequences with certain perm tags removed to tailor which button can be perm, when, it actually makes a neat system of toggling permanent schemes. Personally, i'll probably just use one-shot sensor to perm-selector, but the perm controller chip was requested. look at them in create and try building using the tag sets, and see how it works for you. http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/a76750b66c466a1a1946c927d24de237bc19d04a.jpg http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/13ed6d8fb4b9f39afa853beb7c66afb5f697f33c.jpg ^^^ Old Bad designs, using extra seats, wires, and all that terrible stuff. The stuff everyone does wrong. http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/cc2fa1fef403b32c22b6a3329ddce9d7b953662f.jpg http://beta.lbp.me/img/ft/363270e6e080d775553afbef9286f553717888b9.jpg ^^^New Good designs, where not a single wire is coming from my receiver seat button, i'll never need to juggle seats and wires, and those 8 way attack circuits are like an oroborous aesthetically and functionally. It perfectly emits the Ninja's sword with the sharp edge and point where I want it, whereas the old joystick rotator mess has it dull when left and up, and only sharp sided when right and down. I'll even send you the bot, and wish you luck in finding a way to further eliminate the mess and align it. If you like the form and functionality of a wu-tang logo, you'll love the 8 way directional memory's esheresque flow. Replace those SQUARE chips with tags to trigger timers on other 'move' chips on your one seat and can perfectly set up a Zangeif atomic pile driver, where you rotate from left, all the way around counter clockwise to up-left, old-school d-pad style, so each timer gives you a grace period while they sequentially activate the inputs on your AND-to-grab manuever. Additionally, a windmill-kick motion could be made into a single chip relaying off the same timer trigger tags (all wireless, as always) used for every d-pad motion, but copied into 6 chips for square, circle, triangle, X & shoulder buttons to dictate light, medium, and heavy strength (and split between punch/kick) variations of the special move result. Then when it's all ready your 3 tiny squares for each strength of special-move can be lined up in a horizontal row, and be as perfectly placed and easy to track as the buttons on an arcade joystick. Underneath that goes your next 3 strength move set and so forth. Underneath all this foresight into endless action activation... the simplest user interaction is so quick for me to implement. I can slap a microchip onto a door, put a tag sensor in it, change the label to X one-shot, attach it to a mover of any kind, and a completely basic sackbot with me following it in my All-In-1... I press X and the door opens. I only have to copy the door or copy the chip. I don't even need to go in an put a 'door on' tag on my sackbot's seat and attach the X wire to it. Waste of time to do that, and puts something on the sackbot that it doesn't actually need.

2010-12-21 16:08:00 Author: Unknown User

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double post

2010-12-21 16:16:00 Author: Unknown User

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Holy gadders! That thing is so complicated! I cant wait to see what those really amazing creators do with this complex logic system. We got some insanely incredible levels on the way...

2010-12-21 16:23:00 Author: ATMLVE Posts: 1177

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because i use absolutely self-contained wireless chips, nothing on bots/objects is ever bigger than a fresh, zero-input square chip, as if they were control seats that never change size no matter what's stuffed in them. you also can't sticker seat faces, or change their face color for easily identifiable purposes like a wireless chip as a receiver can be. it beats the hell out of sticky notes since they don't take up board space and don't obstruct your view. plus building your neon-on-black logos for your chips is more fun & creative. if you make a wireless down-LR-SQUARE fireball chip, you'll have fun making a sticker for immediate visual identity. takes more time to type a sticky note to describe functions in some cases. 3 arrows and a sticker cut out fireball, snap a pic and your aesthetically pleasing and functional chip is ready for sharing and worth winning as a prize. plus when captured, you can identify the sticker face while scrolling your popit objects. so yeah, i prefer this whole style.

2010-12-21 18:36:00 Author: Unknown User

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