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Complex Shapes Tutorials: The Visual Guide

Archive: 42 posts

Complex Shapes Tutorials: The Visual Guide

If you wonder how people make corners so perfect, shapes so complex, and curves so realistic, you've come to the right place. This visual walkthrough will explain step-by-step how to create flawless geometric shapes that can make any object look a whole lot more proffesional.

Section: Pressing And Cutting

Introductory Example: Cleaning Up Mistakes

As you create, you're bound to make mistakes, and there are many ways to fix them. But in this section you'll learn about one method, what I call pressing and cutting, pressing squares against other shapes and cutting or adding new segments, which can be a great basis for making any complex shape.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9906

Here we have a crazy shape, with lots of cuts and corners. But what if we wanted to keep some of them, but simplify it?

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9907

First, make a few default squares, the basis for pressing and cutting. Every default shape works in different ways, and the square is no exception. When "smearing" a square, or cutting away at a material with an unplaced square, it always works in 90 degree angles. That is why squares are important to many complex shapes. Unlike circles and triangles and most other default shapes, they can easily be smeared into, or cut off a straight line.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9908

Place the squares on some of the edges, and resize them appropriately. Make sure they are on all the way.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9909

Select a square. Press R3 to copy it, and then, with an unplaced square, press triangle to delete the placed square. Then, press triangle and move your unplaced square along a straight line to delete any edges that are jutting out. After that, do the same with the other square.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9911

What if we didn't want to cut off a piece jutting out, but fill a piece jutting in? Take another square and press it against the side again.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9912

After that, thicken it in the thick layer in front of the shape.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9913

Take one more square and press it on the bottom of the other one.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9914

Copy it, delete it with an unplaced square, move your unplaced square outline to the crazy shape layer, and smear a line that fills in the gap.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9915

Delete the unused squares. That simple introductory example should now let you know how many of the game commands and techniques work that will help you in these next examples, which won't be explained as thoroughly.

Tutorial: Division of a Shape

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9916

If you have any shape you want to divide into sections, it may be easier than you thought.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9917

Move the shape into a middle layer and make a copy of it in the layer in front of it.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9918

Cut the shape any way you want.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9919

Copy the new shape, use the unplaced copy to delete the old copy, cut the shape out of the original square, and place it down. You should now have a square made of two perfectly fitting parts.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9920

A shape can be made of as many pieces as you want, with the only limit being the thermometer and your imagination.

Tutorial: Ungridded Parallel Lines

The grid is a valuable asset to many geometric figures, like parallel lines and perfect stairs, but parallel lines don't always look natural.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9928

Create a simple line that you'd like to be the shape of it.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9929

Take the line, copy it, move the unplaced copy left of it, and smear a line that will be the distance between each parallel line.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9930

Take the placeholder and press it against the first line. Copy another line and place it against the placeholder.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9931

Keep making copies of lines and placeholders, and box-select sections to make the pattern longer.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9932

Delete the placeholders, and you'll now have a perfect row of parallel lines.

Tutorial: Equidistant Complex Shapes

Creating parallel lines is easy, but complex objects that don't press together evenly are a different story.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9933

To give yourself room and to make a base, create a long line in the air.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9934

In this case, the complex shape is a tilted heart.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9935

Create a heart-sized cut into one side of a square, with enough room on the other side for another cut.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9937

Make a copy of the cut-out square to the right of the heart.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9937

Delete the left cutout square, and replace it with the one on the right.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9939

Slide the heart into the hole, and it should snap in. If it doesn't, or if you use complex shapes that aren't symmetrical, try panning out while you cut its shape from the square.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9940

Continue to repeat the pattern.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9941

Delete the placeholders, and you should have a perfectly equidistant row of hearts. In this case, decorated a wuvewy pink.

Tutorial: Extension of a Premade Line

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9942

Here, I'll show you a complicated process, an extension of a premade line. To make the scenario more complicated there are too lines about to intersect, where I'll show you two different ways to do it.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9943

Press two squares along the right sides of the two lines.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9944

Smear both squares into a line in the direction of where the two lines that need to be extended are going to intersect.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9945

Place two more squares on the left edges of your two new lines.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9946

Delete the two new lines that you made.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9947

Smear the left square in the direction where the lines should intersect.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9948

Use a square you pressed along the left edge to cut in the direction where the lines should intersect to shave off the extra width of the line extension. The left line should now be extended.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9949

For the right line you can use a different method, which requires a more careful hand. Press a square onto the left side of the line and shave off the extra width of the square so it becomes the same width as the line.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9950

The next part can be tricky. Like squares, rectangles can go in 90 degree angles when smearing. But, they have a bigger tendency to smear diagnally too. But with a careful hand and eye you can extend a line by doing this just as easily as pressing and cutting.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9951

Oh no! You made a mistake! Just another example of what can be solved through cutting and pressing.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9952

Paste a square over the gap. Then press two squares against both sides of the line.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9953

Cut the extra width off by smearing two cuts with the unplaced squares, and then you have two, perfect, intersecting extensions of a premade line.

This set of tutorials was made mainly to demonstrate pressing and cutting, so there will be more tutorials up ahead.

Section: Using Sprung Bolts as Protractors

Introductory Example: Three-Armed Windmill

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10024

Turn on the medium grid and make a four-by-four square in the back thin layer.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10025

Smear a windmill arm upwards from the same area of the square with a circle.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10026

Put a sprung bolt on the windmill arm in the place where the middle of the square would be, aligned with the grid.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10027

Tighten the bolt to 10 so it won't wobble, and unpause. Watch where the arm points to and tweak it so it points upwards.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10028

Copy the arm into the layer in front of it. Again, unpause so you can see your results of the wobble bolt moving the windmill arm while you tweak it.

Remember, circles have 360 degrees and a sprung bolt's rotation is no different. To make a three armed winmill, divide 360 by three to get the number of degrees between each arm, 120. Because I was lucky with the first one and it pointed upwards at 0 (/360), the math will be easier. Tweak the middle layer arm to be at 120. Then create another in the front layer and tweak it to be at 240.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10030

Copy each arm to the back layer and delete the originals.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10031

Delete the extra dark matter and sprung bolts that will gather in the fused windmill's surface. You'll now have a geometrically perfect three-armed windmill.

Tutorial: Six-Pointed Flower

Making a relatively simple object with only three arms that can fit into the three layers has been explained. But making a more complex shape with more points than layers can be trickier.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10032

Do what you had to do with the three-armed windmill. Align a four-by-four square with the medium grid. Place down a default sharpened ellipse(?) shape and align it with the grid, and again, place a sprung bolt onto the "flower petal" where it's in front of the dark matter square. Set the strenth to ten. Then, tweak it appropriately. This time 0 didn't happen to be the degree where the petal pointed upwards. Simply tweak it until it does go upwards, which should be a multiple of 10, in this case 90.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10033

As stated, the interval of degrees between each segment depends on the number of segments. To make six petals, divide the number of degrees in a circle, 360, by 6. There should be an interval of sixty degrees between each petal. Add 60 to 90, because 90 is where the first petal points upwards. Tweak the second petal to be at 150.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10034

Detach the petal from the dark matter block, copy it, and paste a copy onto the first petal. When you copy the petal, it will automatically re-attach itself to the dark matter, indicated by a screw-in noise. Exit out of your poppit to unselect the petal so that you can see it move while you tweak it.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10035

Tweak it again, adding another 60 degrees.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10036

Again, detach and paste another copy to the back layer. Exit out of your poppit, and start to repeat the cycle.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10038

On the last petal, we passed 360 degrees but continued adding 60 to each petal.

http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1110&pictureid=10039

Delete the extra petals, wobble bolts, and dark matter, and you'll now have a perfectly symmetrical six-pointed flower.

For the future: A Revised Equidistant Complex Shapes Tutorial, With A New And Better Technique, Tutorial For Making Molds Of Objects, Tutorial Of Protraction On The End Of A Protracted Segment, Tutorial Of Protractor Patterns, and possibly a Corner Editor Tool Section.

I hope you learned something to help your creations become better! Don't be afraid to comment on questions or suggestions.

2010-01-01 04:13:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

I'll be back to read that again. Bit of a family emergency going on right now. They seem like common sense steps that you just didn't think of though.

2010-01-01 11:25:00

Author:
thefrozenpenquin

Posts: 479

Thank you for this nice guide! Is there any way to maybe put a picture of the finished products? I understand it but it would probably help the more visual learners...

2010-01-01 15:08:00

Author:
piggabling

Posts: 2979

I think this tutorial is a great idea... but i'm confused.. it says it is a visual guide - but I don't see any visuals. Some pictures would really help me understand it.

2010-01-01 15:51:00

Author:
TheAdipose

Posts: 533

I think this tutorial is a great idea... but i'm confused.. it says it is a visual guide - but I don't see any visuals. Some pictures would really help me understand it.
lol - I was thinking the exact same thing. How is this a visual a guide? What you've described without visuals though, is very well thought out and nicely articulated.

2010-01-01 17:41:00

Author:
v0rtex

Posts: 1878

Maybe it's a guide to visuals.

2010-01-01 17:53:00

Author:
Syroc

Posts: 3193

[ CENTER][ IMG]http://www.lbpcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1098&pictureid=9906[/IMG][/CENTER]

I'm sure it's meant to have pictures.

2010-01-01 18:36:00

Author:
Recurracy

Posts: 166

What the heck? There's like sixty pictures in it!

Edit: I think it's because they were from an album that was private. Should be fixed

2010-01-01 21:58:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

Now that's a useful tutorial.

Even if I'm sad because I already knew about most of those, and in fact, I use them regularly (great minds think alike!) I'm glad I got to read about the last section, about lenghten in a line.

You see, just today I happened to be in a situation where knowing that would have known in handy. Now I feel like a *******, thanks to you.

Now in all seriousness, thanks for this tutorial, it will help unexperienced and not-so-unexperienced LBPers.

Heart, 5 stars, and tagged "Ingenioso"

2010-01-01 22:54:00

Author:
Keldur

Posts: 628

There you go! Haha!

Very nice guide and those pictures really help! *wink, wink*

Thank you!

2010-01-02 00:18:00

Author:
piggabling

Posts: 2979

S'good I suppose. But you didn't explain what cutting and pressing was...

2010-01-02 01:08:00

Author:
Kern

Posts: 5078

Cutting and pressing seems pretty straightforward. And I have used a sort of variation on this for a while now. I also like to use a straight edge block with pause on to line items up prior to gluing.

I'm intrigued by the sprung bolt protractor idea though. Also, a creative stickering tutorial might be very helpful to others also.

2010-01-02 01:57:00

Author:
thanatos989

Posts: 248

s'good i suppose. But you didn't explain what cutting and pressing was...

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------

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KernelM, I spent a day making this. The least you could do is read the post instead of criticizing me for something that's right there in black and white.

2010-01-02 04:00:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

What? I can't see anywhere the explanation of what cutting and pressing is?

2010-01-02 14:17:00

Author:
Kern

Posts: 5078

About the Equidistant Complex Shapes thing with the heart: You could just change the heart to a different material and then copy and paste it into the background. Then just change the heart back to the same material. Because it was originally a different material , it wont smear. Was this the effect you were trying to achieve? Or have I gone and got myself confused :s

2010-01-02 14:32:00

Author:
theamilien

Posts: 485

Thanks for fixing the images, it really explains a lot this way!

2010-01-02 17:02:00

Author:
Recurracy

Posts: 166

2010-01-03 01:11:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

Some of these things could really help me out in the future. I don't understand the first tutorial though, can't you just use the corner editor?

2010-01-03 01:18:00

Author:
warlord_evil

Posts: 4193

These look like pretty useful tips! The thing about equidistant complex shapes, though.. I think I have an alternative, and I think theamilien was saying something like this, too, is to make the shape you want, copy and place it into a block of another material, copy the whole block, and do the same technique you used for grid-less parallel lines. Then, delete the material surrounding the original shape, and there you go!

I have a feeling I may add to the confusion, I tend to do that.

2010-01-03 01:33:00

Author:
Hibbsi

Posts: 203

Oh, God... I know what you mean now. That's a better way to do it. I'll update

2010-01-03 01:46:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

Phew. I didn't want to just come out and say, "WTF U DOIN?!"
Your method looks something like an M.C. Escher "division of a plane" lol

Anyway, nice tutorial, and glad I could help

2010-01-03 03:00:00

Author:
Hibbsi

Posts: 203

A lot of this could be made a lot simpler with the corner edit tool.

If you want a protractor, just search @lite_sleeper, he has a great protractor

2010-01-03 04:12:00

Author:
Unknown User

2010-01-03 09:32:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

Really good tutorial, but you should add text for the last two. I did figure out the Sprung Bolt as a Protractor thing (though I used a Wobble Bolt for some reason), because I needed to make a shape that has 120-degree symmetry (that is, three parts of a circle made of 120-degree segments). It ended up good, and I was able to trick the Complex Shapes thermo by gluing the three copied parts to each other, then using a bit of new material to smear them together.

It's definitely a great thing to know for people who want to make complex shapes without using the Corner Editor (though I do recommend using it to remove unneeded corners), and also cool that squares only smear in 90-degree angles. If the object doesn't line up to the Grid, that can help a lot.

(If you're wondering about the Wobble Bolt Protractor thing, it was basically similar to how the pictures show with a Sprung Bolt, but the movement angle was also used so I could have it autorotate and then Pause so I could glue the next part in. Your method is probably simpler; I'll try it out later.)

2010-01-04 01:45:00

Author:
KimuraOkagawa

Posts: 19

Well, the protractor thing will definitely come in hand for me soon, as I redo the calculator. Very cool tip.

*By the way, the last thing is a six-pointed flower, not five

2010-01-04 02:01:00

Author:
Hibbsi

Posts: 203

Can you put each section under a spoiler?

2010-01-04 04:34:00

Author:
warlord_evil

Posts: 4193

I would but some browsers have too many spoiler bugs and it hopefully shouldn't take more than a few seconds to scroll to the bottom.

2010-01-04 22:57:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

nice guide m8

very useful and interesting info

2010-01-05 01:25:00

Author:
rseah

Posts: 2701

I was just about to start looking for something like this and then i saw this tutorial straight away xD

Using the wobble bolt as a protractor was a mega helpful tip!

And i already kind of knew how to clean off edges and extend lines but i prefer your method by far. Most situations can be solved really easily with the corner editor but your method seems like more of an all-round job

2010-01-05 01:50:00

Author:
Dexiro

Posts: 2100

This last update was great - I never thought about using wobble bolts to make objects - Thanks a lot!

2010-01-06 15:08:00

Author:
Shadowheaven

Posts: 378

Zettla, no it couldn't. The only thing I find useful about the corner editing tool is eliminating corners, and I might eventually add a section on that too if I have the time. And, of course I know about lite-sleepers protractor! lol. But it's uneditable and sprung bolt protracters are extremely fast and easy to make and use. I'll see if I can add that section in tommorow.

I suppose you are right in some cases about the corner edit tool, however if you only use it to delete corners, then my friend you have barely scratched the surface of how useful it is.

I also see how lite_sleepers protractor not being useful in the same manner as yours, however as for it not being editable, you can simply dissolve everything but one sliver, make a mold of this(similar to the material equivalent of anything tutorial) so it is editable, and then make your own out of the sliver.

2010-01-06 22:24:00

Author:
Unknown User

I also see how lite_sleepers protractor not being useful in the same manner as yours, however as for it not being editable, you can simply dissolve everything but one sliver, make a mold of this(similar to the material equivalent of anything tutorial) so it is editable, and then make your own out of the sliver.

Or.. you could just do the way it is in the tutorial in about 20 seconds

2010-01-06 22:28:00

Author:
Hibbsi

Posts: 203

Or.. you could just do the way it is in the tutorial in about 20 seconds

If you are talking about the tutorial for the protractor on this thread, this and a normal protractor (the one like lite_sleepers) have completely different applications.

2010-01-06 22:32:00

Author:
Unknown User

I'm just messin with you

I hope people learn to not take what I say so seriously lol

2010-01-06 22:34:00

Author:
Hibbsi

Posts: 203

I suppose you are right in some cases about the corner edit tool, however if you only use it to delete corners, then my friend you have barely scratched the surface of how useful it is.

I also see how lite_sleepers protractor not being useful in the same manner as yours, however as for it not being editable, you can simply dissolve everything but one sliver, make a mold of this(similar to the material equivalent of anything tutorial) so it is editable, and then make your own out of the sliver.

The corner editing tool can add corners, and it can remove corners; it's as simple as that. Everything you can do with the corner edit tool you can do without it. All it is is a shortcut to making some shapes faster, but not all of them. The only thing it's majorly efficient at is removing corners. I know the first tutorial isn't the best way to edit the square but I made that tutorial to demonstrate the pressing and cutting technique. Nonetheless I'm adding a section on corner editing soon, so no need to worry.

As for the protractor, I don't support hacking objects. And I know you can mold it. (If you payed attention you'd see that in the upcoming tutorials list.) BUT THE FACT THAT YOU CAN RIP IT APART DOESN'T MAKE IT EDITABLE. My method takes twenty seconds, and can do more.

If you are talking about the tutorial for the protractor on this thread, this and a normal protractor (the one like lite_sleepers) have completely different applications.

My protractor is abnormal? And somehow it's different than a normal protractor? It can do WAY more than lite_sleepers. Plus, his only had 5 or 10 degree intervals as I recall. I'm not done adding tutorials either, you can expect more from this wonderful method. You can make symettrical shapes, protractions on the end of protracted sections, patterned shapes, curves, and really, basically anything that involves angles whatsoever can be done with it.

2010-01-07 00:23:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

Hahaha I knew you would say all of that (or something like it)

Incinerator22's snappy comebacks > my snappy comebacks

2010-01-07 00:29:00

Author:
Hibbsi

Posts: 203

Thanks, lol, I guess, but I'm just stating facts

And another thing zettla, you seem to be saying I don't know anything about the corner editor tool when you yourself are being completely judgmental about my protractor, sooo...

2010-01-07 00:31:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

lol you show him anyway yeah

2010-01-07 00:32:00

Author:
rseah

Posts: 2701

Thanks, lol, I guess, but I'm just stating facts

And another thing zettla, you seem to be saying I don't know anything about the corner editor tool when you yourself are being completely judgmental about my protractor, sooo...

I am not saying you don't know about corner edit tool, I am saying you are not using it to it's full potential if all you do is delete corners with it.

How am I being judgmental of you protractor? I simply stated that they are more efficient at different things. I recognize that your protractor is very useful.

When I said yours was not a "normal" protractor, I did not say it didn't work, I just meant that it does not look like a normal protractor you would find in a geometry class.

I see no harm in remaking the protractor, the only reason I would do this was so I can detach a sliver and protrude it making it easier to get the angle, not to give it away as a prize. Also I did not do this, I made my own protractor from scratch. Furthermore I can get angles much smaller than 5 degrees, even down to decimals.

If I have come across as rude or arrogant I am sorry. If you want, I will leave your thread alone.

2010-01-07 02:20:00

Author:
Unknown User

I am not saying you don't know about corner edit tool, I am saying you are not using it to it's full potential if all you do is delete corners with it.

How am I being judgmental of you protractor? I simply stated that they are more efficient at different things. I recognize that your protractor is very useful.

. The resulting additions make my tutorial better.

2010-01-07 02:24:00

Author:
Incinerator22

Posts: 3251

Great tutorial Incinerator. I was just teaching Gilgamesh some of these tricks last night (or at least he made it look like I was teaching him haha!) I had no idea that you had been compiling a thread based of these tactics.

I like the wobble bolt protractor. This is not something I had thought of before. I can't say that I've had a need for one yet, but I'm sure this will come in handy someday.

I can't offer too much in the way of suggestions for improving this. Like others have said, maybe you need to explain cutting and pressing a bit better, since new users who haven't already figured this out won't really understand what it's for, why it works, and how it's application is clearly different from corner editing.

Mainly, cutting and pressing are methods of using squares and rectangles as virtual rulers for erasing and drawing, respectively. Moreover, it's not that they work at 90 degree angles as much as it is the square shape in draw/erase mode only moves along its own X or Y axis.

Perhaps include examples of when you would want to do this rather than using the corner editor, since this seems to be causing some confusion.

Another tutorial you might want to include is how to bisect obects. Essentially this is the practice of taking one object (i.e. circle), making a cutout of the desired halving from a copy (i.e. half moon), and pressing that half back into the original shape. You've already described the method, but novices might not think of this type of application.

Hope that helps

2010-01-07 15:14:00

Author:
Thegide

Posts: 1465

Very usefull tutorials Incinerator22!
That's must have taken long time to make... :eek:

I never thought sprung bolts could be used as protractors!! it's really cool and helpfull !
I guess everyone will have its way of making something, but your tips and advices can really help people who are not used to make very precise and complex shapes!

Thanks for sharing these! Well done!

2010-01-07 23:08:00

Author:
dajdaj03

Posts: 1486

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